This Keysearch review discusses the importance of SEO to your blog, how to do keyword research and my personal opinions on Keysearch itself. Although this post contains affiliate links, it is not a paid review. I am actually a paying subscriber of the program. All thoughts and opinions are my own.
It’s Never Too Soon to Start SEO
If you are a new, or aspiring, blogger, you have probably already heard about keyword research. Even if you are an established blogger, you may be looking for ways to improve your keyword research. Either way, you should know that good search-engine-optimization (SEO) is crucial to building long-term, organic traffic flow to your site. A good keyword research tool is an important part of your SEO toolbox. Choosing the best keyword analysis tool might seem confusing, since there are multiple keyword tools claiming to be the best. I’m going to talk a bit about choosing a keyword research tool. In the process, I’ll talk a bit about the importance of SEO, keyword research and how to go about it.
What is the best keyword research tool for blogging?
There are a number of tools available for conducting keyword research. Some are more well known than others. Moz, Ahrefs and Semrush are some of the big names you may have seen, or heard. Maybe you have used some of their free features, read their articles, or even subscribe to their service. Which is the best is subjective and will depend, in part, on your own needs and preferences. Keysearch is one option among many, but I think that it could be the best option for many people, depending on the circumstances.
What’s your favorite keyword research software?
If you want to know what my favorite keyword research tool is, that gets a more straightforward answer. It’s Keysearch. Now, I won’t claim to have tried all of the keyword research programs out there, or to be an expert on any of them. Based on my experience to this point, though, Keysearch has what I need at a price that I can’t argue with. Something better may come along, or something highly comparable with a lower price. If so, I will gladly consider using it. Until then, Keysearch will be my go-to keyword research software.
Which is the most affordable keyword research tool?
To date, Keysearch is the most affordable tool I’m aware of for conducting quality keyword research. Yes, I know there are free options out there, plus some paid services offer free limited functionality. When considering the robust set of functions offered by Keysearch, combined with their price point, I would still say it is the most affordable – meaning it is the best value.
Keysearch SEO Tool
As the name suggests, Keysearch performs keyword research and analysis. There are a few different ways Keysearch attacks the problem of keyword research, plus there are some other goodies included. You may not want, or need, all of the functions offered by Keysearch, but they combine to create a rather formidable SEO toolbox. Aside from keyword research, Keysearch also helps you with competitor analysis, Youtube research, plus analyzing and tracking your own site and keyword ranking. That’s no tall, though. There is also a handy content assistant and an opportunity finder. That’s a lot of functionality for a one-stop, web-based research tool.
How to use Keysearch
The main feature of Keysearch, obviously, is its keyword research function. You simply enter a keyword, or phrase, into the search bar and click the search button. There are couple of options you can use to filter your search, including by location. For location, the default is “all locations”, but you can select specific countries. The default is to search by related keyword, but the drop-down menu gives you several other choices. You can sort by Keysearch’s database, Amazon suggestions, Ebay suggetions, Bing suggestions and more. I usually leave the default settings on for a keyword search, but for specific uses, there is some useful flexibility built in.
Examining Your Results
Below the search bar, you will see a graph of search trends. Below that is a listing of the top 10 ranking sites for your keyword. For each of those sites, relevant information, such as domain authority, number of backlinks, etc. will be listed. At the bottom of the left-hand side you will find longtail keyword suggestions, based on search engine queries.
Related Keyword Listing
Looking at the right-hand side, you will see a list of keywords that your search returned. The number of keywords listed will be specified, then a few other category headings. If you are a content creator trying to drive traffic to your blog, or niche site, the two most important columns will probably be for volume and score. Volume is Keysearch’s estimate of how many times per month a particular keyword was searched. The score is referring to the difficulty score of a particular keyword. Red is going to be the hardest to rank for, whereas light blue is the easiest. Green is still fairly easy and you’ll see many more of these than you will of light blue. Yellow will be more challenging, but not the hardest. This color coding makes it easy to scan the list, but each keyword is assigned a specific, numbered difficulty score. The lower the score, the easier it should be to rank. The higher the score, the harder it will likely be to rank.
Choosing Your Target Keyword
Ideally, you are looking for relevant keywords that have a high search volume and a low keyword difficulty score. How high is high enough for volume? That depends on your personal criteria. I have read some bloggers are fine with targeting keywords with a volume as low as 100. Others want a minimum volume of 500. Personally, I let individual circumstances determine my choice. If I feel like I have a good shot at ranking on page 1 for a keyword with a monthly volume of 500, I’ll go for it. If the only relevant keywords I think I can rank for have a lower volume, then I go for that. I’d rather be realistic and maximize my potential search traffic, rather than reaching for something that’s out of my grasp and getting nothing.
Keep in mind, it is helpful to refer to the top 10 list on the left to help determine the level of competition for any given keyword. A site with a low DA rank, few links and that hasn’t covered their SEO bases by including the keyword in their title, description, or URL might be vulnerable to being bumped off the first page of Google search results.
Now that you’ve done your research and found a relevant keyword that you feel you can rank for, it’s time to write a blog post around that keyword. Keep in mind, the most important thing you can do for your SEO is to write good content that people actually want to read. Stuffing a bunch of keywords into a post that is poorly written is not going to save you, no matter how much keyword research you do. Your post needs to be engaging and your keywords need to fit naturally into the flow of your writing.
That being said, Keysearch’s Content Assistant can help you improve your odds of a high ranking for your target keyword. Enter your keyword into the Content Assistant search bar, copy and past your blog post into the text box, then hit the search button. To the right, you see a few different fields populating with results. It will give you the difficulty score, which you probably already learned from your keyword research, as well as volume and all of that good stuff.
Actionable Content Suggestions
Next, you will see the word count of your post, as well as the average word count of the top 10 ranking pages. Below that, it will tell you the number of recommended keywords for your post and how many of those are already in your text. Then you will see a list of “must words” that are spelled out for you. For each one that is not in your text, there will be a yellow indicator. If the “must word” is present in your text, the indicator turns blue. These are the longtail keywords that are most used in the top-ranking pages for your target keyword. In other words, if these are the most prominent keywords on the pages that Google has chosen as the best search results, it’s probably a good idea to include them in your article.
You can click on other tabs to find even more related keywords, questions that are related to your keyword that people are actually searching and snippets of text taken directly from the currently top-ranking pages. That’s a lot of valuable information to help you shape content in a way that should improve your chances of landing on page 1 of Google’s search results. Keep in mind, though, that plagiarizing someone’s content is not only unethical, but it’s not going to help your rankings. Also, stuffing every recommended keyword and question into your blog post without any regard for the usefulness of your information, or its readability, is also a bad strategy.
Other Keysearch Functions
Aside from keyword research, using Keysearch for its Content Assistant is probably my favorite thing. Its usefulness doesn’t stop there, though. Explorer is a function that will analyze either an entire domain, or a specific page, for important statistics and indicators. It will give the domain strength and, also, it will tell you what difficulty score you should be targeting, based on the domain strength. Backlinks, currently ranked keywords and more are listed under the Explorer function.
Under this category, you can check for backlinks, find out what organic keywords a domain is ranking for, check the gaps between your keywords and that of a competitor and find further metrics and page analyses.
Under the rank tracking function, you can list all of the keywords you are trying to rank for. It will show you their current rank, if any, and will track their relative progress over time. If a keyword goes up, or down, in its page ranking, Keysearch will keep track of it. It will even display a graph to help you visualize the performance for any given keyword.
That’s Not All
I’ve written over 1,000 words in this post, but have really only scratched the surface. There is more functionality and more information provided by Keysearch that I could feasibly cover in one post. For the functions I have described, I mostly covered the basics. The more I use them, the more I learn and adapt to them. Since I do not include Youtube as part of blogging experience, I have not covered that aspect of Keysearch. Know, however, that it has a dropdown menu of options for Youtube research.
Also, I have looked at the Opportunity Finder a little, but so far, it seems like the least useful aspect of Keysearch for my purposes. I have read from others, though, that they have had success with using Opportunity Finder. I want to point out that these functions are there, but I won’t pretend to know more about them than I do. Given all of the great features included with Keysearch, I definitely feel like I get my money’s worth out of them, even if I don’t regularly use every single function.
How Much Does Keysearch Cost?
Alright, you’ve stuck with me this long, so you’re probably ready to get down to the bottom line. All of that sounds great, but how much does it cost? Right? First, you should know that Keysearch offers a free one-month trial. I can sing their praises all day, but you should see for yourself if its right for you. As I said before, what is best for someone will depend on their own circumstances.
The Free Trial option has limited functionality. You only get 5 keyword searches per day, plus you will not have access to the rank tracker and competitive analysis features. The Starter package option is $17 per month, or 1 year for $169. The limitations with this option are that the keyword searches are capped at 200 per day and you are limiting to tracking 80 keywords. The Pro package costs $34 per month, or $279 per year. With the Pro option, your keyword searches bump up to 500 per day. Pro also let’s you track up to 200 keywords. I use the Starter package and it has been more than ample for my needs. If, at some point, my blogging enterprise grows enough that I actually need those extra daily searches, I’m sure it will more than pay for itself at that point.
Are there any Keysearch coupon codes available?
Compare those prices to any of Keysearch’s competitors and you will quickly see that it is a real value. That is a lot of bang for your buck, given all the capabilities that are place at your fingertips. If you are new to blogging, paying for a keyword research program may still seem like a risk, especially if you have limited financial resources. You may be wondering if there are any coupon codes available, so you can get an even better deal. Afterall, a lot of online products frequently offer coupons to entice new customers. Well, in this case, ask and you shall receive. When you purchase a subscription to Keysearch, just enter the coupon code KSDISC to get 20% off the standard list price.
So, there you have it. You are serious about optimizing your blog and driving more traffic to your site, SEO is critical to that process and SEO best practices means doing effective keyword research. Keysearch, in my opinion, is the best value currently on the market for that purpose. Not only does it have a robust keyword research function at a relatively low price, it also includes other powerful SEO features at no additional cost. That sounds like a winning combination to me. Give Keysearch a try and see what you think. Either take it for a test drive through a free trial, or use the coupon code KSDISC to get jump into fully functional paid plan.
Check out the Blogging Resources page to find more tools and tips for starting your blog off “on the write foot”.
The term language travel
may mean different things to different people. Indeed, when I use the phrase,
it encompasses a few different things. Generally speaking, language travel is
travel that is, primarily, designed with a particular language in mind. This
could be traveling to a country to practice language skills, or for the purpose
of learning a language. Language travel can also mean that you are using
language, in some way, to facilitate your travel. This could include teaching
your native tongue in other countries, as the means of being able to travel. In
an even broader sense, it might be said that the act of studying and learning a
language enables you to travel vicariously without ever leaving home.
There’s an old cliche
about American travelers expecting everyone to speak English to them when
traveling abroad. Maybe there’s some truth to that, but let’s face it, if you
travel very widely, you don’t have to be American to quickly fall behind the
language curve. Yet, there’s that whole thing about “when in Rome”.
I’m going to guess that a relatively small percentage of travelers are equally conversant in English, Arabic, Swahili and Cantonese. I’ll make a confession up front. I’m not. On the other hand, I think it’s simply good manners to arm yourself with some basic language knowledge when visiting a country where your own language is not dominant. Even if you don’t plan to become fluent in a particular language, language travel can be as simple as learning enough words and phrases to make a good impression, as well as to make your travels a bit more smooth.
When I’m visiting another country, I like to get the basics down. What are those basics, though? Well, for me, I think it’s important to be able to greet someone in their own language. So, a simple “hello” and “goodbye” in the local language are mandatory. I also try to nail down other polite formalities, such as “please”, “thank you” and “excuse me”. After a couple of times being the bungling foreigner, I also added “sorry” to my list.
Obviously, the more you learn of your host country’s language, the easier it will be to navigate their culture, but just getting some basics down is almost always appreciated by the locals. Just like in my own hometown, strangers are more likely to be helpful when you extend a little courtesy.
Luckily, in the digital age, it’s never been easier to access language learning resources. Whether you are trying to achieve fluency, or just memorize those polite basics, the information you need is just a few mouse clicks away. Really, it may be as close as an app on your phone.
I find Duolingo to be one of the handier ways to introduce a new language and to brush up on the basics of grammar and vocabulary. It’s free, effective, and although you can use their regular website, they are probably better known for their handy phone app. Several weeks before going out of the country, I like to start running through the lessons for my target language. Although it may not make me magically fluent in time for my trip, it certainly boosts my comfort and confidence levels.
If you really want to get serious about a new language, truly becoming conversationally fluent, there is eventually one other thing that you’re going to have to do. That one other thing is the most important thing. You need to speak with someone in that language and, preferably, that someone will be a native speaker. The first few times can be a little intimidating, but languages are meant to be spoken. You’ve got to do it.
A great resource for learning a new language is the website italki.com. Through italki, you can find professional teachers, community tutors, or informal “language partners”, all of whom can help you learn, or improve, a new language.
Basically, on italki, you find someone that speaks and/or teaches the language you want to learn and then you set an appointment to “meet” on Skype. So, you get to have one-on-one lessons and conversations with native speakers, face to face, via video chatting. Some languages are more prevalent than others, but you’d have to be learning something pretty obscure to not find someone to help you.
Like most things in life, you get what you pay for. The professional teachers on italki.com hold relevant certifications and have experience in language teaching. Yet, the costs are often a great value. A decent hourly wage for some countries may seem like a bargain for many Americans and others. It’s worth noting, too, that the Community Tutors charge less, because they do not have professional credentials. I would recommend perusing their profiles, as well, I’ve had mixed results with Community Tutors, but some of the best teachers I’ve found were, in fact, Community Tutors.
Language is the primary conveyor of culture and the more you can delve into the local culture while traveling, the richer your travel experience is likely to be. Daunting though it may seem, learning a new language (even just a little) is more achievable than you might think.
Another option for learning a language is to purchase a language course. Popular language courses include Rosetta Stone and Pimsleur, but in my opinion, they all tend to be a bit expensive. I also have doubts about their effectiveness. If you’ve had success in attaining fluency through the use of a language course, I’d love to hear about it in the comments.
There is another option
that intrigues me, which I think is the most effective way to learn a foreign
language. I’m talking about language immersion. You could accomplish this on
your own through independent language travel, but there are many places around
there world that offers language immersion classes. In these cases, your trip
is all about learning, but you do so while engaged and immersed in the local
community. For instance, if you wanted to learn Spanish, Costa Rica is a
popular place to do so through language immersion. Another popular place for
Spanish lessons is Antigua, Guatamala. Most language immersion schools offer
packages ranging from a few days, up to multiple weeks.
Teaching abroad is also a
good way to learn your target language. If you only speak one language, that is
typically not a problem for getting a job teaching your language in another
country. The fact that you are a native speaker of the language you’ll be teaching
is of much more importance. It is common for language schools to offer their
teachers free, or discounted, classes to learn the language of the host
country. Add to that the fact that you will be living in the host country and
this could really accelerate your language learning. Instead of paying for a
language immersion class, you would, essentially, be getting paid to immersed
in your new language.
Whatever your language travel goals might be, there are lots of way to pursue a new language in the context of seeing the world. Armed with a few phrases, or on the fast track to fluency, engaging with new places and people through language is an enriching way to see the world. So, go ahead. Give it a try. When in Rome, speak Italian.
Most tourists flying to
Jamaica arrive at the Donald Sangster International Airport in Montego Bay. The
stretch of Jamaica’s north coast from Montego Bay to Ocho Rios encompasses a
large percentage of the country’s primary tourist zone. Besides those visitors
arriving by plane, there are literally boatloads of tourists arriving every
week to Jamaica’s north coast. Cruise ship terminals are located in Montego
Bay, Falmouth and Ocho Rios.
The Distance from Montego Bay to Ocho Rios
The distance from Montego Bay to Ocho Rios is just over 60 miles. That means the country’s busiest tourism airport and 3 cruise ship ports are situated in a relatively compact area. Of course, the crystal clear waters and pristine beaches are one of the island’s biggest draws. Not surprisingly then, a rather narrow strip of coast from Montego Bay to Ocho Rios is where most of the tourism industry is focused. Despite this heavy concentration, there is so much more to Jamaica than what lies along the north coast. That being said, this particular guide will focus on that specific area of Jamaica.
Driving in Jamaica
When I travel to Jamaica,
I do so independently and rent a car. Not everyone will be comfortable doing
that, especially on their first visit. In Jamaica, they drive on the left side
of the road. In most of the country, the roads are not as well-built, or
well-maintained, as in most of North America, or Europe. Given this combination
of factors, the fast and, sometimes aggressive, local driving style is more
than most tourists want to deal with. I get it.
One of the Easiest Areas to Drive
If you think you do want to drive in Jamaica, though, there’s really no better part of the island to get your feet wet. The stretch of highway from Montego Bay to Ocho Rios is relatively straight. It is also in good condition, especially compared to some rural areas. There is a lot to see and do without having your own vehicle. However, having a car and some independence opens up even more possibilities. I’m always hesitant to recommend driving to first time visitors. Once you’ve got a trip under your belt, though, give it some consideration.
Rental Car Options
There are a number of car rental companies available at the Montego Bay airport. Personally, I use Island Car Rental. Their prices have always been reasonable and I’ve never had any issues with them. Also, I prefer to support the local economy by supporting local companies.
If you are not renting a car, you’ll need to decide how to get around. Where you stay and how you plan to spend your time will help dictate your decision. If you are staying in an all-inclusive resort, or even other hotels, you will most likely have a shuttle to take you to your destination. Resorts are dotted all along the way from Montego Bay to Ocho Rios. How long it takes will, obviously, depend on how far from the airport you are staying. Being on an all-inclusive may also mean you don’t get out and see much else. That would be a shame, in my opinion. Even if you’re staying at an all-inclusive, try to get out and experience the local culture.
The Knutsford Express
If you are staying in Ocho Rios, your property may have a shuttle. If not, there is another good option. The Knutsford Express offers a nice, comfortable a bus ride from Montego Bay to Ocho Rios. As a bonus, they have a terminal right at the Donald Sangster Airport in Montego Bay. Besides Ocho Rios, they offer routes to a number of other cities and towns around the island. The terminal in Ocho Rios is at the popular Island Village Shopping Center. From there, it may still be a bit of distance to your final destination. The staff should be able to help you negotiate a taxi the rest of the way, if you simply ask for assistance.
Conveniently Located Terminal
When I’m in Ocho Rios, I
tend to stay at either Turtle Beach Towers, or Fisherman’s Point, both of which
are across the street from Island Village. Once you disembark from the
Knutsford Express, you can easily walk to either of these places. If you choose
to branch out to other parts of the island during your stay, the convenience of
the Knutsford Express could be worth your while for that, as well. Their buses
are large, comfortable, air-conditioned, coach-style buses. Since I rent my own
car, I do not have personal experience with the Knutsford Express. I have only
heard good things about them and their customer service, though. I have also
seen their buses and would feel completely comfortable and safe in booking with
Montego Bay gets its fair share of tourists. It is Jamaica’s second city, behind the capital of Kingston. It has also long been known as a tourist destination. In more recent years, Montego Bay has also developed a more negative reputation than it once held and, unfortunately, it’s not completely undeserved. There are plenty of all-inclusive resorts in Montego Bay. They tend to be on the side of town going towards Ocho Rios. This is the side of town most visitors see if they venture outside the resorts. There is also Montego Bay’s famed “hip strip”, along Gloucester Avenue. Here you’ll find plenty of souvenir shops, restaurants and other businesses meant to allure tourists.
I’ll be honest here. Montego Bay has never been my favorite part of Jamaica. I grew up on the other side of the island and never spent much time in Mo Bay (as it is colloquially known). When we went to the north coast, we usually went to the Ocho Rios area. Even now, that’s where I normally go for some sea and sun. None of that’s to dismiss Montego Bay, but it is a grittier place than it used to be. Still, if you stick to the tourist areas, there’s no reason to avoid Montego Bay.
Use Common Sense and Enjoy Yourself
Yes, you may see some of that city’s problems in the news, but thousands of visitors happily vacation there every year. The same advice should apply as in any city, including wherever you’re from. Avoid high crime areas and you’re unlikely to be a crime victim. If you don’t know which areas to avoid and which are okay, ask a local. Jamaicans are friendly people and the vast majority are happy to steer you in the right direction.
Coming out of Montego
Bay, heading east toward Ocho Rios, one of the popular historic sites you will
pass is the Rose Hall Great House. This is the site of an old plantation,
infamous for its former owner, Annie Palmer. Annie Palmer is called the “White
Witch of Rose Hall” in popular legend and is believed to have murdered multiple
husbands. A popular novel was written about her, which provides some historical
backdrop, albeit it fictional and sensationalized. You can tour the great house
and grounds. If you are not traveling independently, your resort can likely set
you up with a tour and for cruise passengers, you can check the available
excursions. Rose Hall is a common destination for day visitors and longer term
Rose Hall Area Accommodations
Among the resorts in the
vicinity of Rose Hall are Half Moon, Seacastles, Jewel Grande Montego Bay
Resort, Hyatt Zilara Rose Hall, Hilton Rose Hall Resort and Iberostar Selection
Rose Hall Suites. There are numerous shops and restaurants in the area, as
well, for anyone wishing to venture outside their resort. This area really
provides no cause for concern, in my opinion, if you wanted to wander around a
bit. Of course, if you have any questions, or qualms, just ask the staff at
your hotel for suggestions.
As you continue eastward,
the highway meanders along the coast, providing frequent panoramas of the
turquoise Caribbean Sea. You’ll pass through little towns along the way and
will certainly notice a number of other hotels and resorts scattered along the
coast. In one of the areas where the highway veers away from the sea, you will
pass by Falmouth. Falmouth itself is on the waterfront, so if you want to
visit, you’ll have to take a small detour off the highway. In recent years,
this old seaside town has been revitalized. The impetus for this was the
decision to make Falmouth another cruise ship port.
If you arrive in Jamaica
onboard a cruise ship at Falmouth, there will no doubt be an array of
excursions available to you. Some of the attractions are in close proximity to
Falmouth, but many will involve venturing further afield. The Martha Brae River
is close to Falmouth and bamboo raft tours are available there. The town of
Falmouth itself is somewhat historic and worth a look, although it is not a big
place. There are, not surpisingly, beaches nearby for those who don’t want to
head off for more adventurous activities.
Moving on, it won’t be
long until you come to Discovery Bay. This town, and the bay its named after,
takes its name from Christopher Columbus’ arrival here in the 15th
Century. In fact, there is a small park here called Columbus Park. There are
few historical artifacts to see here, as well as a nice view of the bay.
Although there’s not a whole lot to the park, I consider Discovery Bay to be a
decent pit stop location. There are usually vendors at Columbus Park selling
crafts, as well as fruits and produce. Personally, I’ve found it to be a pretty
convenient and reliable place to stock up on fresh fruit when I arrive on the
Things to Look For in Discovery Bay
Puerto Seco Beach is
located in Discovery Bay and has undergone some rejuvenation in the past few
years. There are, also, a few restaurants and an easy access gas station right
on the main road. The Texaco Station in Discovery Bay has a patty shop next
door, if you want to grab some cheap eats on the go. If you aren’t familiar
with Jamaican patties, you definitely need to have some while you’re there.
They are the quintessential Jamaican fast food. The name “patty” may conjure
images of something like a hamburger patty, but Jamaican patties are actually
more akin to empenadas. Right behind the Texaco is another fruit stand you may
want to check out. I haven’t had great luck finding what I’ve wanted at that
stand, but to be fair, availability varies everywhere. That’s sort of the
nature of buying fresh fruits and produce, regardless of what country you’re
The Ultimate Jerk Center
When I fly into Montego
Bay, I intentionally book my flights so that I arrive sometime around midday.
By the time I get my luggage, clear customs and pick up my rental car, I
usually end up in Discovery Bay in the early afternoon – ready for some lunch.
It has become the tradition for my family to have lunch in Discovery Bay on our
arrival day. Our spot is The Ultimate Jerk Center. Discovery Bay is not a very
big town, so once you pass the “downtown”, be on the lookout. The Texaco I
mentioned will be on your right, if you’re heading toward Ocho Rios. That
junction is, essentially, the main commercial center of Discovery Bay that is
on the highway.
The Ultimate Jerk Center will be on the left, once you clear that commercial neighborhood. The restaurant occupies a fairly large area. It has a bar and plenty of outdoor seating. There will be a walk-up window where you place your order. Then you wait at the counter until your order number is called. If none of this seems obvious to you when you arrive, ask one of the employees how to go about ordering. For a more detailed review of The Ultimate Jerk Center, I actually wrote a whole blog post about it. If you love real Jamaican jerk, I’ve even written a how-to guide that will teach you how to make it at home.
Green Grotto Cave
Right across the street
from The Ultimate Jerk Center is the Green Grotto Cave. This cave system is
unique, in that it largely above ground, rather than being subterranean. There
is a small underground lake inside the cave, too. For years, part of the cave
tour involved a little boat ride on the underground lake. Unfortunately, that
has been discontinued (unless they’ve started it back very recently), but they
still take you down to see it. Aside from the bats that one would expect in a
cave, lots of cave swallows have their nests near the entrance. If you’re
waiting for the next tour to begin, the swallows flitting back and forth
provide a little lowkey entertainment.
The next town you’ll come
to is Runaway Bay. Probably the most popular hotel there is the Franklyn D
Resort and Spa. There’s a golf course nearby, also. The reason I go to Runaway
Bay, though, is to the beach. The main beach at Runaway Bay is Cardiff Hall Beach,
but it is better known locally as Flavour’s Beach. The latter name is taken
from Flavour’s Beach Bar and Restaurant. There is a traffic light right at the
entrance, plus you’ll see signs for Flavour’s. Free public parking is available
right beside the bar/restaurant.
Flavour’s Beach is my family’s go-to beach. Even though we may be staying in Ocho Rios, we make the drive to Runaway Bay. It’s only about a 30-minute drive, each way, from Ochie (the local slang Ocho Rios). The beach here is nice and, especially on a weekday, it’s rarely crowded. Although there may be a few tourists, this is more of a local’s beach. All of that combined makes it worth the drive for me.
Flavour’s Restaurant and Bar
As for the restaurant, I
have eaten there, but I don’t go for the food. The service was slow, even by
Jamaican standards, and the food was rather average. It was a little pricey,
too. Honestly, I try to time our beach excursions so that we’re not stuck there
for lunch. If you’re not able to time it that way, it’s not that the food is
bad. I just wouldn’t go there specifically for the purpose of eating. The bar,
on the other hand, is convenient if you’re working up a sweat in the sun. At
the bar, the prices are geared more towards locals, which is a plus. One of the
vendors by the beach is usually selling jelly coconuts, too, if you want
something more naturally refreshing.
It bears mentioning that only a few hundred yards down the beach from Flavour’s are some private rental properties that are right on the beach. I’ve never stayed in any of them, but I have looked them up online. The prices may be a bit too rich for budget travelers, but they are nice places. I have seriously considered booking one, or more, of them for a group trip someday. There are many other houses and villas between Montego Bay and Ocho Rios. Check AirBnB to see what’s available. New to AirBnB? You can get a $30 credit if you sign up with my invitation code.
Before you get to Ocho Rios, you pass through a couple of small towns in short succession. The communities of Priory and St. Ann’s Bay have a number of villas and hotels clustered around them. Most are off the main highway. As a word of caution, if you are driving, take care through this stretch. The road narrows here, with shops and houses on either side. There isn’t much of a shoulder, but there will be vehicles parked there anyway. Look for traffic coming in and out of the main road and, most importantly, watch for pedestrians. None of this is a big deal, but it’s worth being aware. Most of the highway from Montego Bay to Ocho Rios is more open and less congested. The closer you get to Ocho Rios, you will see things getting a little more crowded.
Just before you drive through Priory and St. Ann’s Bay, you pass a place called Llandovery. There’s a good chance you won’t even be aware of it, except you will see Chukka Cove on your left. Keep this in mind for later, if you’ve haven’t planned ahead. Chukka Caribbean Adventures is a popular source for tourist activities. If you stay right in Ocho Rios, you will probably notice their large catamaran. They have a variety of activities available, but the only one I have partaken of is horseback riding. My last visit to Jamaica, my daughter and I went horseback riding at Chukka Cove and we had a good time.
If you choose Chukka for their horseback tour, they will come to pick you up wherever you are staying. They provide shuttle service to all the area hotels and resorts, but they will also pick you up at least some of the condo complexes. Even though I have my own car, we still took the complimentary shuttle. In fact, I don’t know that I could have found the place on my own, if they’d allowed it. Where they do the horse-riding tours is separate from the main Chukka Cove location you see from the highway.
As for the time spent riding horses, we had a good time. The staff is excellent. My daughter had never ridden a horse and they made sure she was comfortable and looked after. After a nice trail ride through what was once a sugar plantation, you get to ride in the sea. The views along the way, especially when you arrive at the water, are pretty awesome.
Arriving in Ocho Rios
From the airport in Montego Bay to Ocho Rios is about an hour and forty-five minutes, if you don’t stop anywhere along the way. In other words, it’s taken longer to write this blog post than to drive to Ochie from Mo Bay. When your trip is over, you simply retrace your steps from Ocho Rios to Montego Bay. Let’s not worry about that yet, though. This virtual trip is just getting started. You are now arriving in Ocho Rios.
As you come into town, you’ll start to see signs for some major tourist attractions. Namely, you’ll pass the entrances to Dunn’s River Falls and Mystic Mountain Rainforest, in that order. Both will be on your right, with the sea to your left. Lastly, on the sea side of the road, you’ll pass Dolphin Cove. After that, you are entering almost immediately into Ocho Rios. If you happen to choose Turtle Beach Towers, or Fisherman’s Point, you’re going to make a left pretty quickly.
If you’re staying at one of the other Ocho Rios hotels, or resorts, in town, you have just a bit further to go. From here on out, I’ll focus on what to do in Ocho Rios. I certainly haven’t done everything there is to do, or eaten at every restaurant. However, this guide offers some insight and reviews that should get you give you plenty to occupy your time. Trust me, there are plenty of things to do in Ocho Rios and the surrounding area.
Ocho Rios Bay Beach (aka Turtle Beach)
The main beach in Ocho Rios is hard to miss and many of the town’s hotels and condos are located on, or near, the beach. I have some nostalgia for this beach, because I’ve been going there since I was a young boy. It’s actually where I learned to swim. If you’re staying in Ocho Rios, it is hard to beat it for convenience. Truth be told, though, there are other, less crowded, less touristy beaches that I prefer.
If you have some means of transportation, I would recommend exploring different beaches. If not, there’s nothing wrong with this beach. Besides swimming and soaking up sun rays, you can go a on a glass bottom boat ride to the reef, or engage various other paid activities. You should note that some stretches of the beach have lounge chairs and other amenities which may only be for the patrons of certain hotels.
The Dunns River Hype
If you’ve ever
seen a TV commercial for Jamaica, you have almost certainly seen footage of the
famous Dunn’s River Falls, located on the outskirts of Ocho Rios. From tourism
brochures to posters and more, these impressive cascades are one of the most
recognizable icons of the island, long known as the land of wood and
What you might
not know, though, is that Jamaica is practically teeming with spring fed
rivers, often set in beautiful, lush rain forests and, quite often, featuring
picturesque waterfalls. It is true that Dunn’s River is one of the largest and
most impressive of the numerous waterfalls on the island. It is also easily
accessible from some of the country’s main tourist hubs. However, it is also
more likely to be packed with tourists. When I was a kid, it was not so crowded
and people were free to climb the falls freely, without joining one of those
human daisy chains of hand holding tourists being guided to the top. Forgive me
if it sounds judgmental, but neither my nostalgia for simpler days, nor my
dignity, will allow me to climb the falls in such a manner.
isn’t really about Dunn’s River, though. It’s about the fact that there are
alternatives and some are quite nearby. One such place is Konoko Falls and
Park. Perched in the mountains overlooking the town of Ocho Rios, the Konoko
Falls are smaller than their more famous counterpart, but you can enjoy their
beauty in a less crowded and more unobstructed manner. Yes, they provide
guides, but you’re given more freedom of movement and the entire experience
seems a tad less orchestrated. Aside from the cool waters of the tumbling
falls, you are surrounded by a lush, well-appointed botanical garden.
Things to Do
falls and the botanical garden are the main attractions, one serving to
highlight the other, but there are a few other items of interest on the
grounds. A small, simple museum provides visitors with an overview of both the
Taino Indian heritage of the area, as well as a look at the history of slavery
on the island. Although the museum is, essentially, a one room display area, it
does well at providing a summary of its subject manner. For those unfamiliar
with the history of Jamaica, it is worth the extra few minutes to pop into the
Retail and Restaurant Amenities
A gift shop is
located in the Spanish courtyard area of the park and there are also a couple
of restaurant options. Although I’ve not eaten there, there are bars located at
both on-site eateries, so I did enjoy a refreshing beverage at the Arawak Jerk
Pit. Although I can’t speak from personal experience about the quality of the
food, I would say by the looks of the actual jerk pit, they take their cooking
seriously. I found myself pondering how hard it would be to build a pit like
that in my backyard.
vary, depending on what you choose to do at Konoko Falls, but they accept cash
(US or Jamaican), travelers checks and major credit cards. Personally, I would
recommend setting aside a half day, give or take, to enjoy the waterfalls and
grounds. If you are staying in Ocho Rios, it’s only a ten-minute drive, or
less, from the downtown area. Inquire with your hotel about the best
transportation options to get there. If you have your own car, basically you
get on the A3 and turn right onto Shaw Park Road, just past Ocho Rios High
School. Simply follow the signs the rest of the short distance up the
When I think of
Dolphin Cove in Ocho Rios, Jamaica the first word that comes to mind is expensive.
There, I said it. It costs a lot of money. Period. Maybe you can afford to
spend a lot of money, maybe you can’t. Maybe you really can’t afford it, but
you spend it anyway. Everyone’s interests and financial situations are different,
but whether or not you think Dolphin Cove is a good value, relatively speaking,
understand that your day there will most likely cost more than a day at Disney
World. From my own experience, I can tell you that for what I paid for my
family of three to visit Dolphin Cove, I could have brought another person to
Jamaica with us.
Weighing Your Options
So, am I telling
you not to go? Nope. Not at all. I’m just being up front with you. On our trip,
my family decided to do one, big, expensive touristy thing and Dolphin Cove was
our choice. The cost has given me pause when it comes to
recommending the place, but the reality is – we had a blast! We swam with
dolphins! Dolphin Cove is generally cited as the #1 tourist attraction in
Jamaica and, in fact, we were far from being alone when we visited. Clearly,
people love the place and it continues to be a fond memory for my family.
The grounds of
Dolphin Cove are gorgeous. Much of the ascetic beauty is simply the natural
environment of the tropical vegetation, coupled with the clear, turquoise
waters of the Caribbean. The developers of Dolphin Cove did a good job of
blending their attraction into its surroundings, so the natural and man-made
complement each other quite well, for the most part.
Getting Friendly with Dolphins
Of course, the
highlight of this destination is the dolphins and if you do nothing other than
pay for general admission to the park, you will definitely see some dolphins.
Given the fact that you can walk pretty close to the dolphin areas and that the
water is so clear, you’re going to see them. It’s a given. However, I can’t
imagine that too many people that visit Dolphin Cove don’t want to get in the
water and have a personal experience with these lovable marine mammals. Why
wouldn’t you? Afraid of water, or can’t swim? Okay, so maybe some people just
want to look, but we wanted some personal time with a dolphin and you probably
would, too. Different “experiences” come with a different price tag. You can
wade in and touch a dolphin, you can swim with a dolphin (which is what we
did), or you can get the two dolphin experience. Your comfort level in the
water, as well as your pocketbook, will probably steer your decision on which
There is also an
opportunity to have a “shark encounter”. This involves a separate, fairly hefty
fee, but if you have a thing for sharks, maybe you’ll want to spend the extra
money. If so, you will wade into the waters where you can touch, feed and give
a hug to a nurse shark. Nurse sharks are known for being pretty docile and,
although they can get up to 14 feet in length, the ones at Dolphin Cove are not
that large. It’s a pretty mild shark encounter, not like descending underwater
in a cage, while a great white circles you hungrily. From the boardwalk, you
can easily see the show, listen to the employees tell you all about the sharks
and watch as other people pet the big fish. It’s free to watch.
Other On-Site Activities
Most of the other activities on site are included with your admission. There are shops, craft vendors, a restaurant and if you want a photo package of your dolphin experience, make sure to factor those into your budget. For no additional charge, though, you can walk along the lovely Jungle Trail, where you’ll encounter parrots, love birds and rabbits (yeah, I don’t get the connection either, but my daughter loves rabbits, so it was all good). You can take an excursion on a glass bottomed kayak, or let a guide zoom you down the coast a bit in a mini-boat.
Pet a Stingray
Another experience you can have with an aquatic critter is actually included in the regular admission price and, for me, I thought it was more interesting than the sharks. You can get into the water with and give a belly rub to a stingray. Don’t worry, though. Their barbs are removed, so they’re not going to impale you, or anything quite so vacation ending as that.
dolphins is an unforgettable time and Dolphin Cove does a great job of
providing a safe, fun filled environment to do just that and so much more.
Although I can only vouch for the Ocho Rios location, there are three other
facilities on the island: Dolphin Cove Montego Bay, Half Moon Dolphin Lagoon
and Moon Palace Jamaica Grande. The activities and associated costs will surely
vary from place to place, but I can only assume the same high standards will
apply at each location.
One of the more
popular and, frankly more contemporary, shopping areas in Ocho Rios is at
Island Village. There are a few restaurants to choose from at Island Village.
There is also a coffee shop and quite a few retail stores. I’ve never seen a
movie there, but Island Village also has a movie theater.
As the name
suggests, this little eatery combines typical taco shop fare with Jamaican
cuisine. The Mexican-ish aspects of the Rasta Taco shop are reminiscent of the
American West Coast. In fact, one of Rasta Taco’s two locations is in Laguna
Beach, California. The menu isn’t very complicated. Each of their offerings
comes in vegetarian, or chicken. You can get the Rast Bowl, a Rasta Burrito, or
Rast Taco. Well, let me correct myself. The one exception to the
vegetarian/chicken choice is their fish tacos. If these sound like typical West
Coast dishes, they are. The difference is the Jamaican twist in ingredients and
seasonings. The fish is done Jamaican escovitch-style. The chicken is jerk
chicken. You get the idea. The couple of times I’ve eaten at Rasta Taco, I’ve
been satisfied with my order. Another thing it has going for it is that there’s
really no other place in the area doing something similar.
Island Village is Island Coffees Café. They also have two locations in
Kingston, if you happen to go that way. The coffee at Island Coffees Café is
sourced from the world famous Blue Mountains of Jamaica. You can get all the usual
coffee house options, including a cup of fresh pour over coffee. Light menu
items, particularly breakfast fare, is also available. Being a coffee shop,
their opening hours are a bit earlier than most places. This makes it a good
spot for grabbing a brew and a bite before heading to the airport on departure
Near the beachside of Island Village (yes, there’s a beach – more on that later), is the Boardwalk Bistro. This restaurant is actually owned by the same company that owns Island Coffees Café. Boardwalk Bistro offers buffet-style meals, as well as offerings off a menu. Their food covers a range of both Jamaican dishes, as well as items more familiar to foreign guests. I have had a variety of things here, from burgers to curry goat with rice and peas. Neither myself, nor my family, has ever been disappointed with our food choices at Boardwalk Bistro. I won’t go so far as to say it’s a budget diner, but being in the middle of a tourist town, it’s easier on the wallet than a lot of places.
Jimmy Buffett’s Margaritaville
Margaritaville, the now-famous restaurant chain of musical entrepreneur Jimmy Buffet, is probably familiar to anyone who dreams of chasing the permanent vacation. They have become ubiquitous enough, that I don’t really feel like I need to go into much detail about the place. Plus, these kind of American visions of “paradise” aren’t my primary focus. But…it is, arguably, the anchor establishment of the Island Village Shopping Center.
Location, Location, Location
Margaritaville’s small beach offers a nice alternative to the main beach in Ocho Rios. It is also very conveniently located to the cruise ship port, Fisherman’s Point and Turtle Beach Towers. So, it may be one of the easiest places to grab a bite and a beverage, depending on your location. It’s overpriced, which shouldn’t be too surprising. If you have finicky eaters, though, it does offer a predictable menu for American palates.
WiFi – It’s the Only Thing You’ll Get for Free
Perhaps the handiest reason to keep them on your radar is the free WiFi. I have gone there more than once for that reason alone. If you are in Ocho Rios without cell phone data and your accommodation doesn’t have free WiFi, you can count on Margaritaville. This is normally not a problem for me, but on one trip, I found myself technologically challenged. Their WiFi allowed me to check in for my departing flight, which was much appreciated.
The Taj Mahal Shopping Center is another popular collection of souvenir shops, restaurants and boutiques. It is actually close to Island Village Shopping Center, so you could double up on both at one time for a full-on shopping spree. Unlike Island Village, the Taj Mahal Shopping Center has been around since I was a boy. For reasons unknown to me, the building in the center is shaped like a miniature Taj Mahal, thus the name.
I’m not really a shop-til-you-drop kind of guy, but they do have a variety of stores worth checking out. One of the main reasons that I go to the Taj Mahal Shopping Center, though, is that they have a cambio for exchanging currency. If you are staying on that side of Ocho Rios, in my opinion, it’s the most convenient place to change your money.
There are a couple of bars and restaurants, as well. The one I usually go to is the Cafe Express, which is located upstairs. They serve a decent breakfast. My family likes to get waffles with fruit, while I prefer a traditional Jamaican breakfast of ackee and saltfish with callaloo. You can get all of that at Cafe Express, so it works well for us. The prices aren’t overly inflated for tourists, either. It’s nothing fancy, mind you – just some reliable comfort food at a reasonable price.
How to Find It
Evita’s is up the hill from Ocho Rios, one the same side of town as the cruise ship port and Island Village. If you have a vehicle, the road leading to Evita’s can be found behind the Taj Mahal Shopping Center. You could take a cab, if you don’t have your own car. From the area of Island Village and Taj Mahal, it is really not a very far walk, either. Maybe 10-15 minutes, but keep in mind that much of it is uphill.
Ambiance and Setting
Evita’s offers delicious Italian with an excellent view of Ocho Rios from above. In the evenings, you can enjoy a nice breeze on their open terrace, with the city lights glistening below. Although Evita’s isn’t necessarily a “fancy” restaurant, it is well appointed with a professional wait staff. Showing up in your swimwear for dinner probably won’t get you barred from entry, but you will be under-dressed.
My Personal Pick
I have tried a few things on the Evita’s menu over time, but one of my personal picks is their One Love Penne. It is penne pasta in an alfredo sauce with steamed callaloo and jerk seasoning. It has just the right amount of spice to it. I will admit, I have tried unsuccessfully to duplicate it at home. That just gives me a reason to keep going back to Evita’s.
Tracks and Records
Not only from Montego Bay to Ocho Rios, but beyond to Kingston and even London. That’s where you’ll find locations of Usain Bolt’s chain of sports bars: Tracks and Records. As I write this, I am aware that the Ocho Rios location of Tracks and Records is moving from its original location. It was not too far out of the way, but hopefully it will be a little more conveniently located.
Come for the Food, Stay for the A/C
All that aside, this establishment is still worth a mention. The interior features plenty of imagery of the sprinting legend. Although it is a sports bar, also offering up music, I have to say that the food is really quite good. In particular, I was impressed with the traditional Jamaican offerings on the menu. The curry goat was actually some of the best I’ve had in Ocho Rios. Everyone else in my party on my last visit seemed equally pleased with their choices.
If there’s one thing I hope they duplicate in their new location, it is the air conditioning. After a week on the go, in the heat, Tracks and Records had some of the best A/C in the city, which was well received by my crew.
Calabash Ital Restaurant
If you are vegan, vegetarian, trying to eat healthy, or simply curious about the Rastafarian influence on Jamaican cuisine, you may want to try Calabash Ital Restaurant. Ital cooking is the common Rastafarian approach to food. It may be easiest to simply say it is vegan, but with some differences. Most notably, ital cooking does not use salt.
Calabash Ital Restaurant is not located in central Ocho Rios, but is a fairly short walk from the town center. The food is served in plentiful portions and is priced for everyday people, not for gouging tourists. In fact, you may see some tourists eating at Calabash, but it’s not an authentic establishment. Unless you are already familiar with Jamaican produce and dishes, you may need to ask questions, but that’s no problem. They offer friendly service, as well as high quality home-cooking.
But Wait, There’s More…
If you made it this far, thanks for sticking with it. In reality, there is so much more to see, do, taste and enjoy than what I have covered here. This guide only scratches the surface of all that awaits you on Jamaica’s north coast, from Montego Bay to Ocho Rios. I hope this, at least, gives you a foundation from which to enjoy your own exploration of Jamaica.
Have you been from Montego Bay to Ocho Rios, or points in between? Let us know your recommendations, and experiences in the comments.
Have You Had Authentic Jamaican Jerk?
Are you a fan of spicy Caribbean flavors? If so, you have probably tried Jamaican jerk. You’ve at least heard of it, right? Jamaican jerk is a style of meat smoking that is unique to Jamaica. You might call it the Jamaican version of barbecue. A lot of places these days have a jerk dish on their menu to give their menu a little spice (no pun intended). Not a lot of them are making authentic Jamaican jerk pork, though.
If you’ve ever been to a
Jamaican restaurant, you may have noticed that what you get is different than
in big, chain restaurants. Chances are, it’s more authentic. Here’s the thing,
though. If you’ve been to a Jamaican restaurant in the U.S., or elsewhere, and you’ve
had jerk in Jamaica, you may have noticed a difference. The jerk in American
restaurants, even ran by Jamaicans, isn’t quite the same. It’s not typically as
good. It’s not typically as authentic. There’s a reason for that and it’s not
just some magical vibes floating in the air in Jamaica.
Getting Jerk In Jamaica
When traveling to
Jamaica, there are many great Jamaican jerk pits to be found. Often, they are
called “jerk centres”, or something along those lines. Usually, they involve a
big, open barbecue pit for smoking meat. That’s what jerk is all about –
smoking meat. And that also happens to be why most jerk dishes in America do
not taste authentic. It is fairly rare to find a restaurant outside of Jamaica that
smokes the meat they serve. There is a particular type of seasoning involved in
jerk, also. Usually these restaurants will use jerk seasoning and that’s it. It’s
good, but not as good as it could be. It’s definitely not as authentic.
One of my favorite lunch stops when I arrive in Jamaica is The Ultimate Jerk Center in Discovery Bay. Heading from Montego Bay to Ocho Rios, it is a convenient stop along the north coast highway. It is right by the Caribbean Sea, so you can enjoy a nice breeze, some salt air and some good jerk chicken, or pork. It’s one of my recommended places if you happen to be going to Jamaica. I even wrote an article about it. You can check it out HERE.
What’s the Secret to Making Authentic Jamaican Jerk Pork?
You want to know a secret, though? I make jerk pork at home that tastes pretty much like what you buy at The Ultimate Jerk Center. It tastes like what you would eat all over Jamaica. That’s the secret. You can make real-deal, authentic Jamaican jerk pork right at your own house. Making authentic jerk that is better than what is served in American restaurants – even Caribbean ones – is simple. First, you just need to know how.
I’m going to break it down for you on how to make wood smoked, authentic Jamaican jerk pork at home. I will walk you through the process that I use. Most of the time, I make jerk pork. I think pork takes smoke better than chicken, in general. Also, the wood for making jerk is pricier than many other woods. It takes the same amount of smoke for a big pork shoulder as for a medium sized chicken. Getting the most bang for my buck is part of the equation.
To Make Authentic Jamaican Jerk, You Need A Smoker
My smoker of choice is the Masterbuilt Electric Smoker. These instructions will assume the use of an electric smoker, but can be adjusted to whatever smoker you use. I know there is a debate among grill and smoker aficionados about using electric, gas, or charcoal. When it comes to grilling, I agree with the purists. Charcoal is better. When it comes to smoking, though, I don’t think that’s necessarily true. A system that produces smoke and allows for controlled temperature is all you need. Admittedly, electric smokers do not crisp the skin of poultry as well as charcoal smokers. That’s another reason I usually smoke pork. That being said, there are ways to deal with that issue if you want to smoke chicken. Just finish it off in your oven broiler to crisp the skin up before serving.
Electric smokers are easy
to use. Digital controls let you set the temperature where you want it. They
also come with built in timers. Wood chips for electric smokers are readily
available and are easy to use. The whole process with an electric smoker is
simple and clean. Well, cleaner than with charcoal, at least. There are
multiple brands on the market, but if you are interested in investing in a
smoker, I recommend Masterbuilt. I am on my second Masterbuilt electric smoker
and they have worked well for me.
The Most Important Thing You Need to Know
So, let’s get down to business. We’ll assume you have your smoker and know where to find the meat of your choice. What you need now are the ingredients to turn that uncooked meat into authentic Jamaican jerk pork. Really, there are just two things you need – the right seasoning and the right wood.
The most important thing
for authentic Jamaican jerk is not the seasoning, it’s the wood. Real Jamaican
jerk uses a specific type of wood. That wood is not widely available in much of
the world. Actually, that’s one of the reasons authentic jerk is hard to come
by outside of Jamaica.
If You Don’t Use Pimento Wood, It’s Not Real Jerk
To make real, authentic, Jamaican jerk, you need pimento wood. There is a saying that “if you aren’t smoking with pimento wood, you can’t call it jerk. I agree. I know of only one legitimate seller of Jamaican pimento wood in the United States. Pimentowood.com will sell you genuine, Jamaican pimento wood in different forms, for use in all kinds of smokers. Pimento wood has one of the most distinct flavors out there. If you use something else, it will not taste authentic. Splurge on the pimento wood. It should last you a long time. Without the pimento wood, you are just another cook making second-rate jerk dishes.
As important as the wood
is, the seasoning is a very close second. Like I said, most Jamaican
restaurants outside Jamaica simply use authentic seasoning and call it done.
They usually don’t smoke the meat and, even less often, will they smoke with
pimento. So, good seasoning is good enough for some people. It’s not good
enough to be called authentic Jamaican jerk, though. Given my appreciation for
real Jamaican jerk, you might be surprised at what I tell you next.
When it comes to seasoning my jerk meat, whether it’s pork, chicken, or anything else, I use store bought seasoning. Sure, you can find plenty of recipes online for Jamaican jerk seasoning. Some of them may be good, or even great. In my opinion, though, there is one company that makes a commercial jerk seasoning that is as good as homemade. Rather than spending the time, energy and money on tracking down authentic, quality ingredients, let them do the work for you. My go-to Jamaican jerk seasoning is made by Walkerswood. It is real, authentic Jamaican jerk seasoning and it’ s all I use. I absolutely do not use any other commercial jerk seasoning, nor would I recommend any other brand. I’ve been using Walkerswood for more than 20 years and have never regretted it. If you want to make authentic Jamaican jerk pork, Walkerswood is authentic seasoning.
Walkerswood: My Go-To for Jerk Seasoning
The name Walkerswood actually comes from a small, village in rural St. Ann, Jamaica. It’s not far from one of the main tourist centers on the island, Ocho Rios. The Walkerswood brand evolved out of a local farmers co-op and much of the ingredients are still grown right there in the community.
What’s not grown in the village of Walkerswood is still grown in Jamaica and the company prides itself on using the best ingredients. I can’t argue with them. You can buy the traditional jerk seasoning rub in either mild, or hot. They also sell a jerk marinade. Personally, when I am making jerk, I use both the rub and the marinade. Whether you choose hot, or mild, is up to you and your taste buds. If you’re unsure, I’d recommend starting with the mild. Mild is a relative term. Jerk seasoning is spicy, flavorful and packs some heat. Mild versus hot is a relative term.
Once you have your
seasoning and your wood, all you need is to buy your meat and you’re ready to
roll. The general rule for smoking meat is “low and slow”. That’s true for
jerk, or anything else. It’s true for pork, or chicken. You want to cook it on
as low a temperature as possible, for as long as possible. That will help the
meat not only maximize the flavors, but helps it retain its juicy goodness. A
good digital thermometer is handy for keeping track of the meat’s internal
temperature. The fewer times you open the smoker, the better. So, if you can
get a digital smoker with a remote reader, that’s even better.
Let’s Talk About the Meat
Another rule of thumb for
a pork shoulder (also known as a pork butt), is 1 hour in the smoker per 1
pound of meat. I usually get a pork should that is 8 – 10 pounds. That means I’m
looking at approximately 8-10 hours. The cooking temperature should be kept
between 225-250 degrees Fahrenheit. Even with a digital smoker, the temperature
will fluctuate a little. Although you may have a long smoking time, be sure to
keep tabs on your progress.
Smoking meat is one-part
science, one-part art. Don’t simply wait for the timer to go off and pull the
meat out. It could either be undercooked, or overcooked. What you are going for
is a final internal temperature of between 190-195 degrees Fahrenheit. You may
know that pork is safe to eat at an internal temperature of 145 degrees
Fahrenheit. When cooking a pork butt, though, you are aiming higher than that.
When it’s done, you want to be able to “pull” the pork. In that regard, smoking
jerk is much the same as smoking American-style barbecue. At 190-195, the pork
is easier to pull apart, but still tender and moist.
Step-by-Step Instructions for Authentic Jamaican Jerk Pork
Here are your step-by-step instructions for smoking, authentic, Jamaican jerk at home:
Trim the fat cap off of the pork butt.
Using your Walkerswood marinade and a meat injector, inject an ample amount of marinade into the pork butt.
Using the Walkerswood rub of your choice (mild or hot), apply a coat to the entire outside of the pork butt. Thicker, or thinner, will have some affect on how hot and spicy it ends up, regardless of which rub you choose.
Using the Walkerswood rub of your choice (mild or hot), apply a coat to the entire outside of the pork butt. Thicker, or thinner, will have some affect on how hot and spicy it ends up, regardless of which rub you choose.
Once you have applied the marinade and rub, place the pork butt in the refrigerator to marinate. I recommend no fewer than 4 hours. Personally, I marinate overnight, at least 8 hours.
If you are using an electric smoker, you will need to soak your pimento wood chips before use. For an 8-10-pound pork butt, you should plan on 3 to 5 good handfuls of wood chips. Soak the chips between 20 and 30 minutes before using.
Pre-heat the smoker to between 210- and 220-degrees Fahrenheit.
Once the smoker has reached the desired temperature, place the pork butt inside the smoker.
For an electric smoker, fill the wood chip tube with pimento wood chips (drain excess water first) and insert into smoker.
Smoke the meat for approximately 1 hour per pound. Smoke only penetrates the meat during the first few hours, so make sure you are keeping a good flow of smoke going. If you see the smoke diminish during the first few hours, add another handful of wood chips.
Smoke the meat for approximately 1 hour per pound. Smoke only penetrates the meat during the first few hours, so make sure you are keeping a good flow of smoke going. If you see the smoke diminish during the first few hours, add another handful of wood chips.
Once the internal temperature has reached to between 190- and 195-degrees Fahrenheit, you are ready to remove pork from the smoker. Allow the meat to rest for 15 – 30 minutes.
After the meat has rested, you are ready to pull it apart. You can simply use forks and/or a knife, or some handy “bear claw” devices made specifically for the task.
Making It Your Own
And there you have it – authentic Jamaican jerk pork, smoked with pimento wood. This process has never failed me, but once you’ve tried your hand at it, you will get a feel for what works best for you. You can always adjust the seasoning to your taste the next time around.
If you prefer to smoke a
chicken, or other poultry, there are a plethora of instructions online for
doing so. To make jerk chicken, simply apply the lessons learned here to the general
instructions for smoking chicken. As you now know, the main thing is to get
your pimento wood and your authentic Jamaican jerk seasoning.
If you use my instructions for making real, authentic Jamaican jerk pork, drop me a comment. I’d love to know how it turned out.
Pro Tip: If you are in Jamaica, pick up a few bottles of Geddy’s Pimento Marinade (pictured above, to the right). This isn’t part of my jerk pork strategy, but it will give you something different to do with pimento wood. I like to marinate a pork tenderloin in Geddy’s Pimento Marinade and smoke it with pimento wood. If there’s anything that beats authentic Jamaican jerk pork, it may be this pork tenderloin. I have never seen Geddy’s in the U.S. and have never found it available online, so this is a genuine insider tip if you visit Jamaica.
Updated August 2, 2019
Getting the Real Deal
I’m a fan of jerk. No, not rude people. I’m a fan of jerk: the Jamaican-style of barbecuing meat. It’s very difficult to find authentic jerk in the United States. That includes at most every Jamaican restaurant I’ve eaten at in the States. If I want good, authentic, jerk pork, chicken, or whatever else, I usually have to make it myself at home. What I prefer, though, is to go to Jamaica and get it there. In fact, my first stop after leaving the airport is usually The Ultimate Jerk Center.
As much as I enjoy firing up the smoker and cooking at home, it’s not the same as going to Jamaica and eating freshly cooked jerk. Even better is eating it while looking at the turquoise waters of the Caribbean. Yeah, that sounds way more fun, right? Even in Jamaica, though, not all jerk restaurants are created equally. Honestly, I’ve never eaten anywhere that I simply didn’t like their jerk. However, some places have established a bit more of a reputation than others.
Before booking your Jamaica vacation, read our guide to the north coast, from Montego Bay to Ocho Rios.
Ultimate Jerk and More
The main raod that hugs the north coast is the A1 highway. If you are meandering along the A1, you are likely to pass one of the better known jerk restaurants, so you might as well stop by for lunch. “Jerk Centre” is a common appellation for the roadside eateries that specialize in this uniquely Jamaican style of smoking meats. This one, as the name indicates, considers itself to be the “Ultimate”. Is it really the ultimate? Eh…who’s to say? Tastes are subjective, so I don’t normally like to declare things to be definitively “the best”. I do consider the Ultimate Jerk Center in Discovery Bay to be a solid example of the style and definitely worth a visit.
At the Ultimate Jerk Center, you will get the usual options of jerk pork and jerk chicken. At least occasionally, they serve up more exotic items, such as jerk rabbit. Whichever you choose, you can’t really make a bad choice. You also have the usual sides – rice and peas, festival (a type of bread), breadfruit, etc. If someone in your party isn’t a fan of jerk, you can always get some fish and bammy (another type of bread), or go for the curried goat.
While there are other jerk centres along the north coast, some of which may prove better in the jerk department, if you’re vacationing in the area, it’s hard to beat this place for location. Discovery Bay is right on the well worn path from Montego Bay to Ocho Rios and beyond. The Ultimate Jerk Center is on the beach side of the highway, so you can enjoy a nice, sea breeze, while dining in the open air facility.
Almost directly across the street is the Green Grotto Cave, a popular attraction that is open for tours. Right behind the restaurant is the grounds of the Ultimate Sports Club, which is essentially a cricket field. If you’re lucky, there will be a game underway, offering the opportunity to watch a game that is rarely seen by North Americans, despite being quite popular throughout much of the world. Columbus Park is nearby, as well, marking the original landing of Christopher Columbus. It is from this event that Discovery Bay takes its name.
Making Your Own Ultimate Jerk
If you have a grill, or smoker, at home and would like to try your hand at authentic Jamaican jerk, I have written some step-by-step instructions for making your own authentic Jamaican jerk pork at home. I grew up in Jamaica and have been eating jerk pork for over 40 years. I’ve been making it myself at home for more than 20.
You can make authentic Jamaican jerk pork at home (or chicken, or anything else, for that matter). Don’t let others fool you, though. If you’re not smoking the meat, it’s not authentic jerk. Find out how to bring the taste of Jamaica home with my Jamaican jerk pork instructions.
San Diego, California to Ensenada, Baja California
From San Diego to Ensenada, Mexico is a
stretch of Baja California coastline that packs a lot of punch. I am always
surprised when I talk to someone from Southern California and learn they’ve
never crossed into Mexico. Getting to Ensenada from San Diego is a breeze, once
you know the basics. You could do your own coastal tour as a day trip, or pick
a destination and dig in a little deeper. Whether you stay in a hotel, or book
an AirBnb, there are plenty of options.
New to AirBnB? Use my referral code and get $40 off your first rental.
If you want to travel into Baja California
from San Diego, there are several ways to go about it. A lot of people end up
in Ensenada by taking a cruise. That’s not my scene, personally, but if you’re
a fan of cruises, that option may interest you. Another option is to walk in at
San Ysidro border crossing and catch a bus to Ensenada, or points in between,
such as Rosarito. There are companies that will provide Mexico tours from San
Diego, some of which are specialty tours. For instance, wine tasting tours to
Valle de Guadalupe have become popular.
Decide How You’ll Get There
The handful of times I have entered Mexico from San Diego have all been by private transportation. Two of those times, I have rented a car and driven myself. I like the independence and flexibility that comes with having my own car. It can be especially convenient when traveling as a family. That being said, I am seriously considering switching things up next time. Walking across the border and taking a bus to Ensenada would be cheap enough to give up some convenience. Plus, once on location, Uber is available to get around. I think it’s definitely worth trying to compare with my past experience.
If you happen to be heading to the other end of the Baja Peninsula, flying may be your best bet, but you can rent a car in Cabo once on the ground to give you independence for exploring.
Since the only way I’ve gone into Mexico is by car, most of what I share here will be based on that fact. However, it shouldn’t be too difficult to find your way to the same locations without much trouble. You can take a bus from the Greyhound Station San Diego to the central bus station in Tijuana. The ABC bus will carry you to further destinations. If you want more details, the folks over at Go Nomad give a decent run down on taking a bus from San Diego to Ensenada. Check it out HERE.
Know Before You Go
Take Your Passport – You Need It to Get Back in the U.S.
If You Drive, You Must Have Mexico Car Insurance. This Is True In Your Own Vehicle or In A Rental
If You Rent A Car, Confirm That They Allow It to Go to Mexico
Crossing the Border at San Ysidro
It’s Time to Go
Entering Mexico from San Diego, you’ll go through the San Ysidro port of entry. Farther to the east is the Otay Mesa border crossing. I’ve never used Otay Mesa and, honestly, don’t know why I would. I’ve read from other travelers that coming back into the U.S., wait times at Otay Mesa can be much shorter. Depending on where you’re going, maybe it would make sense. I’m just throwing that out there. Again, I’ve only used the San Ysidro crossing and it’s never been more than I was willing to deal with. That includes coming back into San Diego, which takes considerably longer than going into Mexico.
Putting things into perspective, the San Ysidro port is the busiest land border crossing in the world. Yes, the world. More people cross between California and Baja California than at any other place, along any international border. There is a pedestrian bridge where you can cross into Mexico on foot, or you can cross by car. Crossing Mexico by car is really not that hard, but the first time may seem a little chaotic.
There’s a method to the madness, though. Just take it slow and pay close attention. Heading south on Interstate 5 out of San Diego, you can’t miss the border crossing. That’s where the highway ends on the United States side of the border. There are plenty of signs warning you that you are approaching the border. There will be a sign announcing your last chance exit before the border. As you get closer, you will be funneled into lanes that are separated by concrete dividers. You will pass by cameras and other detection devices as you approach the border. None of that requires you to do anything. Simply pay attention and get going forward.
Bienvenidos – Welcome to Mexico
At this point, you should be feeling a
little excitement, as it becomes increasingly clear that you are really going
somewhere. This isn’t just another exit off the interstate. You’ll be greeted
by a giant Mexican flag and signs welcoming you to Mexico. Right before the
actual border checkpoint, those sequestered lanes open up into what may look
like a wide-open parking lot at first glance.
This is where it may seem a little crazy
for a minute, but keep your cool. Be mindful of other cars. Looking ahead,
you’ll see the cars are actually filing into new lanes. Overhead, you’ll see
signs indicating what directions those lanes will take you. The left side is
for downtown Tijuana, the middle section takes you toward the Tijuana airport.
On the right, you’ll see the sign for the beaches of Tijuana – Playas de
Tijuana – and Rosarito. Unless you really want look around the city of Tijuana,
you want to go to the right side. As often as not, I have crossed through the
middle lanes, because I wasn’t able to jockey far enough over in time.
Once you pass through the customs area,
you will another chance to move over to the right. Keep in mind, though, that
you will need to negotiate that lane change very quickly after customs. The
exit to head south toward Rosarito and Ensenada veers off to the right soon
after you clear the border.
Getting Through the Checkpoint
Let’s back up for a minute. When you are
approaching the actual border, the cars will form back into lanes. This is
where you’ll see the signs I just mentioned. Those lanes will take you through
the customs check. Crossing into Mexico, they use a red light/green light
system. Pay attention to this. If the light is green, you simply drive on
through without stopping. No problem. That’s it. You’re on your way to
Ensenada, or wherever. If the light is red, though, you have to pull over.
Pulling over means you pull up a few yards and park in one of the open slots
that you will see in front of you. One of the Mexican border agents will
approach you here. They may ask to see your driver’s license, or passport. They
may ask you about the purpose of your visit, or where you’re staying. They may
even look inside your vehicle. In other words, it’s the sort of thing one
should expect at an international border. Who gets the red light and has to
pull over seems fairly random.
Only about one out of three times crossing into Tijuana have I had to pull over. On that occasion, I was not the driver. I wasn’t asked for any form of ID and, best I recall, the agent only spoke to the driver. There was no looking inside the vehicle, or any such thing. Just follow the border agent’s instructions and you should be fine. Like our border agents, they’re looking for problems. If you’re not a problem…well, there should be no problem. Planning to cross during low volume time periods, I don’t think it has ever taken me more than 30 minutes.
The Toll Road vs. the Coastal Road
The Toll Road Option
Coming out of the border checkpoint,
you’ll merge to the right, onto an overpass that will loop you around in the
direction toward the coastal highways. Highway 1 is the old coast road and
Highway 1D is the newer toll road. If you want to make a beeline for Ensenada,
or other points south, it may be best to take the toll road. If it is your
first time driving in Mexico, you may be more comfortable taking the toll road.
If you want a more leisurely tour of the coast, soaking up more of the local
vibe, Highway 1 may suit you fine.
Another factor you may want to consider is that all toll roads in Mexico are serviced by the Green Angels. The Green Angels are bilingual government employees that patrol the toll roads in green trucks. They are, essentially, a form of roadside assistance operated by the Mexican Tourism Ministry. If you have an emergency on the road in Baja California, this is the 24-hour toll free number to call for the Green Angels: 01-800-987-8224. Also, you should save your toll receipts during your trip, to show that you have been in transit on the toll road. This is in case you’ve made a pit stop along the way and have an accident, or other problems.
Be Prepared With Cash
Between the border and Ensenada are three
toll stations: Playa de Tijuana, Rosarito and Ensenada. Have some cash handy in
small denominations. Toll booths accept either U.S. dollars, or Mexican pesos.
Prices, as well as exchange rates, are subject to change. Last time I passed
through, the total was roughly $6 USD for all three tolls. Of course, you are
subject to the tolls going either direction, so double that figure for a
roundtrip. It probably bears mentioning at this point, that the toll roads are
patrolled by the police and they enforce the speed limit. Rather than have a
discussion about the “what ifs” of infractions of the law in Mexico, I will
only say one thing about this. Follow the speed limit.
The Coast Road Option
If you do take the older coastal road,
you will pass through towns of various sizes. You will have great views of the
ocean and can easily pull off if you pass something that strikes your fancy. I
have never taken Highway 1 all the way into Ensenada from Tijuana, but have
traveled the majority of it. Going northward on Highway 1 there may be a
military checkpoint. There was the last time I went that way, located somewhere
between Puerto Nuevo and Rosarito Beach. I don’t recall exactly where it was,
but it didn’t not look very temporary. So, it may, or may not, still be there.
Passing through the checkpoint was not a big deal, but if it concerns you, you
may want to use the toll road.
Whether you choose the Highway 1D toll road, or the older Highway 1, you will be able to enjoy nice views of the coast. Most of the time, the two highways are running parallel to each other. Along some stretches, they are right beside each other. Between Tijuana and Ensenada there are various points of interest along the way and they are easily accessed from either highway. In the next few sections, I’ll talk a little about some of the areas along the route. These may make good stopovers along your way. You could even catch some on your way down and others on your way back. Some of them could even be suitable for overnight stays, depending on what kind of itinerary you want to plan.
Now You’re Getting Somewhere
After crossing the border, depending on which route you take, you’ll pass the Playas de Tijuana. I don’t have much to say about that, because I’ve never checked it out. One of the next areas you come to is Baja Malibu. You’re technically still in Tijuana, but by the time you hit Baja Malibu, things have opened up quite a bit. You’ll probably feel like you’ve left Tijuana. Baja Malibu is popular with surfers. I don’t surf, but I assume it’s the first real surfing destination south of the border. If I wanted a day trip beach break across the border, this would be my go-to place. In Baja Malibu and the surrounding area are a number of residential enclaves. These tend to be gated neighborhoods and condos. There’s an RV park in the vicinity, as well.
Baja Malibu is on the ocean side of the
highway. There is a surf shop, a convenience market and a couple of small
restaurants. Even though the neighborhood of Baja Malibu proper is gated,
pedestrians can pass through to the beach with no hassles. If you would like to
stay overnight in the area, or even make it your home base for your whole trip,
quite a few of these houses are listed on AirBnB. If you want quick access back
to the border, it’s conveniently located for that. It’s easy to hit Rosarito
Beach from here, too. A day trip, or two, to Ensenada is easy to manage from
Baja Malibu. Keep in mind that if you went to Ensenada, or the Valle de
Guadalupe, you are at least an hour from Baja Malibu. If you plan to have
drinks, or sample wine, keep this in mind and plan accordingly.
Around Baja Malibu, you will notice signs for real estate for sale. A lot of expats live in the area and a lot of Mexican nationals have beach homes here. Being a laid-back beach town so close to the border gives it a certain appeal. If you are really interested in buying a house in Baja, it’s not a bad option, in my opinion. I’ve looked at prices and, compared to the U.S., ocean view property here is a good deal. If you settle for being opposite side of the highway from the ocean, it’s an even better deal. The views can be spectacular.
From this area, you are looking out at the Los Coronado Islands. Seeing the spectacular sunsets make it tempting to stay right there. Pushing farther south, the price of Baja real estate starts to drop. You will undoubtedly see signs for real estate developments and condos from Tijuna to Ensenada. It’s a popular place for retirees and digital nomads who want access to the U.S. without hopping on a plane.
A Little About Rosarito
Going south a little further, you will
find yourself in Rosarito, or Rosarito Beach. This is the first sizeable beach
town you come to in Baja California. It is popular with locals and Americans
both. Its popularity as a vacation destination has apparently dipped since its
heyday, but you there are still plenty of visitors to Rosarito Beach. Here you
will find hotels and, if you prefer, AirBnB accommodations. The Rosarito Beach
Hotel is probably the largest. It is tall enough that it serves as an easy
landmark for navigating the area. All that being said, I have never stayed in
Rosarito. I have visited there more than once, though. If you look around
online, you may see questions about crime and safety in Rosarito. Maybe that’s
more of a concern than it used to be; I don’t know. I have always felt completely
safe there. I always practice common sense precautions when traveling, but it
helps to keep things in perspective. Crime and safety are more of a concern in
my hometown than they used to be. The best endorsement I can give any place is
to say that I am comfortable taking my family there.
What’s Happening On the Beach
The beach scene in Rosarito is different
than any I’ve encountered elsewhere and I’ve been to beaches in lots of
countries. On the weekends, during warm weather, it is crowded and festive.
Tables with umbrellas cover much of the beach and you will see families taking
up most of the space. There is plenty of eating, drinking and merry-making to
be seen, or enjoyed. Mariachi bands work the crowd for tips, stopping to
serenade people at their tables. There are a few spots on the beach to grab a
beer. Vendors sell coconuts, fruits and snacks. Horse and pony rides are
available on the beach. You are likely to see people riding their own horses on
the beach, also. If I had to describe Rosarito Beach in one word, it would have
to be “busy”.
What’s Happening Off the Beach
A block off the beach is the main commercial drag. Here you will find a large craft market that sells all manner of souvenirs and trinkets. After a while, you realize most stalls are selling the same things. If you keep your eyes open, though, you can find some more interesting items. Along the main street are other stores and restaurants.
There are some good tacquerias, a nice coffee shop and if you want to pick up some local wine, or spirits, the pharmacy is actually worthy a visit. The selection and prices on alcohol are worth a pharmacy visit. It is not the only taco shop on the street, but I’m a fan of Tacos El Paisano. One of my very favorite restaurants in Baja is Mariscos Tito’s. It is also in Rosarito, but not at the beach. Whether staying in Rosarito, or passing through, I highly recommend it if you want to get your fish taco fix.
Be sure to check out my post about my favorite fish taco joint – Mariscos Tito’s – located in Rosarito.
Puerto Nuevo Lobster
Proceeding down the coast toward Ensenada, you will pass the small fishing town of Puerto Nuevo. I say pass, but I actually recommend that you stop. Unless you hate lobster, that is. Lobster that is relatively inexpensive, by American standards. Puerto Nuevo is a good spot for dining on seafood, but they are famous for their lobster. Despite the small size of Puerto Nuevo, I would guess there are more than a dozen restaurants there. The challenge is in choosing one. I haven’t even scratched the surface of what Puerto Nuevo has to offer.
My experience with Restaurant Chela is worth a recommendation. You can check their hours and get a feel for the place on their Facebook page. It is not as close to the ocean as some others, but my family and I enjoy the rooftop dining there. The prices were good, the portions were large and everything tastes delicious. To be fair, if you check online reviews, there are other places that have higher rankings. There may be places with lower prices, too. My point being, it’s hard to go wrong in Puerto Nuevo. Whether you do a little research on beforehand, or show up and go with your gut instinct, you probably won’t be disappointed. A lot of people plan their lunch break in Puerto Nuevo when they travel from San Diego to Ensenada. I’m one of them.
Valle de Guadalupe
Mexico’s Answer to Napa Valley
Mexico’s wine country, the Valle de Guadalupe, is
Baja California’s answer to Napa Valley. It’s quite an answer, at that. Once
hailed as an up-and-coming hidden gem, I’m not sure that is really true
anymore. Although their wines may not be as readily available outside of
Mexico, the winery strewn valley is hardly a secret anymore. Known as the Ruta
del Vino, Highway 3 splits off to the northwest where Highway 1 ends. When you
reach this juncture, you are just short of hitting Ensenada. Heading into the
valley takes you away from Ensenada, but even from the heart of the Valle de
Guadalupe, you are only about 30 minutes away from the city.
The wineries here are spread out, for the most
part. If you are driving yourself around, keep this in mind. You may want to
plan out your day, so that you are hitting three, or four. There are a number
of tours available that you can take from Ensenada. If you are staying in a
hotel in Ensenada, they can almost certainly help you with tour arrangements.
Doing so may enable you to hit more wineries, or at least eliminate any
designated driver worries. Multiple days in the area means more wine tastings.
Like wineries most everywhere, the ones in Valle
de Guadalupe have tasting rooms. You can sample their wares and buy bottles of
your favorites. Many of the wineries also have shops that sell various other
products. Aside from growing grapes for wine, there are a number of olive
orchards in the area. Locally produced olives and olive oil are sold at some
wineries, as well as other artisanal food goods.
Specialized Tours Are A Thing
The region has become popular enough that wine
tours come directly from San Diego. So, if you want to forego other adventures
in Baja, you can always travel down just for the wine. I don’t consider myself
a wine expert, but I do drink wine and have been visited a my share of
wineries. I would consider the Valle de Guadalupe to be one of the more unique
wine regions in the world. There would be no shame in making a border crossing
simply to sample what they have to offer. For my tastes, though, I prefer to
tie it in to a longer stay.
Did You Say Russian? Sí .
One of the interesting things about the Valle de
Guadalupe is the area’s Russian heritage. That may seem unexpected, but in the
early 20th Century, a sizable community of Russian immigrants established
themselves in the valley. A handful of businesses are still run by descendants
of these immigrant. A shift in fortunes drove most of the Russians to the
United States, but some stayed. Since that time, they have intermarried into
the broader Mexican population, but Russian surnames and remnants of their
heritage are still present. If you visit the Santo Tomas winery, you can see
the nearby Russian cemetery. The Bibayoff winery is owned and operated by
Russian descendants. They maintain a small museum onsite dedicated to their
unique heritage. There is another Russian museum located on the premises of the
Restaurante Familia Samarin. This eatery is a bit off of Highway 3, in the town
of Guadalupe. If you have no interest in the museum, I would still recommend a
visit. The restaurant is a real treat and they also have a retail shop with
local gourmet food products.
You can learn more about Restaurante Familia Samarin by checking out my review HERE.
Staying in the Valley Is An Option
There are a variety of boutique hotel options in the Valle de Guadalupe. A search of AirBnb will turn up multiple options, as well. I think a few days staying right in the valley makes for a great couple getaway. Idle away the days with wine tastings and explore the diverse and distinguished restaurant scene. If you opt to stay in Ensenada, know that you are still in easy reach of wine country.
Stay on the Bay at Quintas Papagayo
Quintas Papagayo is right on the Bahia de Todos
Santos (All Saints Bay). Just as you are coming into Ensenada, you will see
this gated complex on your right. If you are looking for easy-access,
reasonably priced accommodations with an ocean view, I would suggest at least
giving Quintas Papagayo a look.
This place was originally built back in what I
would call the classic car era. It is not a motel, but has that retro Route 66
vibe to it. The older sections are little beach bungalows, although they call
them chalets. There are new, more contemporary units there, as well. I have not
stayed in the newer ones myself. I like the look and feel of the old units.
There is something quaint and nostalgic about them. Another important feature
is that many of older bungalows are closest the water.
The Quintas Papagayo complex is on the water,
but unfortunately, it is not beachfront. This bayfront real estate has rocks
lining the shore. That’s fine with me. I can always drive to a sand beach.
There is also a swimming pool on site. The views of cruise ships coming and
going and the marina next door at the Hotel Coral y Marina appeal to my tastes.
The water front units have nothing more than a paved path and some rocks
separating them from the water. Sitting outside, you can hear the sea lions out
in the bay. In the mornings, sitting on the rocks with my coffee listening to
the sea lions, as the sun burns off the haze puts me all the way into my chill
If you have your own car, Quintas Papagayo is
easy striking distance to the Valle de Guadalupe, or into central Ensenada.
There is a restaurant on site and a couple of eating options within walking
distance. You’re also just a few blocks distance from a supermarket. The units
have kitchens, so you can prepare some of your meals at “home”. The older
chalets have lots of traditional tile work and finished wood interiors that say
Mexico in a way that many newer places do not. There are even fire places for
the colder months.
To book a unit at Quintas Papagayo, you can either do so directly through their own website, or elsewhere. Most of the units are privately owned, so some are listed on AirBnb and other booking sites. I have used AirBnB in the past, but would have no problem booking through Quintas Papagayo’s proprietary site. In fact, regardless of who you book through, you check in at their front office, just as you would at a hotel, or similar accommodation.
What To Expect
Free parking is available for all units. The
stand-alone chalets have their own covered parking parking spots. A typical
chalet with have two bedrooms, two bathrooms, a kitchen and combination living
room / dining room. A small hallway
leads from the common area to the other rooms. In at least some of the chalets,
the kitchen has windows that open out to a covered outdoor dining area. Tile
countertops on the inside and outside, let you dine casually in proximity to
the cooking. An outdoor picnic table and grill round out the cooking and dining
options in some units.
Most of the people we encountered that were
guests at Quintas Papagayo were from elsewhere in Mexico. The others were from
the United States. My family and I were the only people that seemed to be from
far away. The other Americans were from California, making a short Baja
California getaway. Actually, the majority of people we’ve interacted with in
Baja California were either from one of the bordering U.S. states, or were from
Mexico. I’m sure there are plenty of people who, like us, visit from farther
away, but it didn’t seem to be the norm. Everyone, Americans and Mexicans
alike, seem surprised to hear we come all the way from Tennessee to visit Baja
Care For A Hotel Instead?
Obviously, there are other Ensenada hotels to choose from. As I mentioned, the Hotel Coral y Marina is nextdoor to Quintas Papagayo and is possibly the nicest traditional hotel in Ensenada. I haven’t stayed there, but have priced their rooms online and consider them to be quite reasonable. If I wanted something more upscale, that would probably be my choice. Aside from the comforts and amenities they provide, you benefit from essentially the same great location as Quintas Papagayo. The hotel arranges shuttles and tours. That is something to keep in mind, particularly if you want to explore the Valle de Guadalupe.
La Bufadora Excursion
One of Baja’s Biggest Attractions
There are plenty of ways
to occupy yourself in Ensenada. Markets, restaurants and souvenir shops abound.
Some of these I may cover in the future, but for this post I’ll focus on a
popular excursion that will take you south of Ensenada. If you come in on a
cruise ship, this will undoubtedly be one of the excursions on offer. If you
are staying in a hotel, they should be able to hook you up with a tour. If,
like me, you do your own driving, it’s an easy drive that gives you a bit more
feel for the region.
Although La Bufadora is
commonly billed as being in Ensenada, that’s not completely true. It is in the
Ensenada area. If you took my recommendation and stayed at either Quintas
Papagayo, or Hotel Coral y Marina, it’s roughly an hour away. If you happen to
be staying in the Valle de Guadalupe, you can add another half an hour that.
From central Ensenada, depending on location, it may be more like 30-45
So, What Exactly Is It?
So, what is La Bufadora? La Bufadora is a marine geyser, or blow hole.
It’s one of the largest in North America. The ocean water pushes into holes in the
rock face of the cliffs, resulting in high plumes of water shooting into the
air. It’s kind of cool to watch, especially if you’ve never seen a marine
geyser. Just as much fun as seeing this natural wonder is visiting the colorful
and lively market that lines both sides of the road leading to the geyser.
Seeing the blow hole for the first time was okay, but if I went back, it’d be
to wander through the marketplace.
Once you park, or disembark your tour bus, you walk down the last stretch
of road to La Bufadora. Lining both sides are vendors and shops hawking all
kinds of wares. There are clothes, souvenirs, food, shady looking pharmacies
and who knows what else. The vendors will call to you and try to lure you in,
but they’re not as aggressive as tourist traps in some other countries.
The quality of goods ranges from cheap and tacky to handmade and unique. Overall, it is a colorful, lively, fun experience. If you don’t like crowds, or souvenir markets aren’t your scene, you will still have to endure it to get to the blow hole. On the other hand, if you are open to soaking up the full experience, grab a bag of churros and take your time strolling through what could be called “the gauntlet”.
Heading Back to the Border
All Good Things Come To An End
Alright. I think I’ve given you enough to get you started planning your
Baja California adventure. Once it’s time to head back to the border, you
simply follow the instructions in reverse. Maybe you’ll want to switch things
up a little. If you took the toll road down, maybe you can take Highway 1 back.
Whichever stops you missed on the first leg can be checked off as you go from
Ensenada to San Diego. If you’re lucky, you’ve learned of some must-see sites
during your trip that I know nothing about. New discoveries always add to the
sense of adventure, even on a well-planned itinerary.
The only thing left to discuss, then, is what happens when you get back to the U.S. – Mexico border. Crossing back into the United States at San Ysidro is more of an ordeal that crossing into Mexico was at the beginning of your trip. Once you get close enough, you will see that the cars are approaching the border in (mostly) orderly lanes. Depending on the wait times, you may find yourself at a near standstill miles away from actual port of entry. Border wait times are probably the single biggest factor you need to mindful of when returning north. They can vary wildly by time and day. The beginning and end of weekends are high traffic and best avoided if you are flexible with your travel dates.
Looking For the Bright Side
Fortunately, there are a couple of things that can ease the burden of your
return crossing. First, there is a website that will tell you the current and
average wait times. If you start watching these stats in advance of your trip,
you may be able to better gauge your target crossing time. You can also check on
the day of and adjust your departure, if you can. If you have a flight to
catch, or some other hard deadline to meet, I recommend hitting the border as
early as possible to play it safe.
The second thing the border crossing has going for it is that it has a sort of marketplace atmosphere to it. There are vendors plying their way up and down the lanes of traffic selling all sorts of things. I always get churros at the border. I don’t know exactly what makes them taste better, or if it’s my imagination. Either way, I love churros at the border. Other snacks and drinks are available, also.
Passing the Time
The trinkets tend to be on the cheap and chintzy side, but sometimes you might see some cool item that makes for a good last-minute impulse purchase. If what you want doesn’t pass by your vehicle, sometimes you yell across to get someone’s attention. As you get closer, there are actual stores on the side of the road. Vendors will run back and forth for you to grab something you want to buy. If the lines are moving slow enough, passengers could have time to get out, walk to the stores, then come back.
My wait times at the border have ranged from as low as an hour-ish to 3 ½
hours. Even with distractions and churros, I was getting pretty tired of the
stop and go traffic. Needless to say, you should make sure you use the restroom
before crossing the border. For the driver, especially, a bathroom emergency is
difficult to deal with in gridlock traffic. Take it easy on the beverages.
Negotiating Customs and Immigration
Once you’re on the final approach to the San Ysidro border checkpoint,
the vendors and panhandlers can’t go any further. You are now in American
controlled territory. Border patrol agents, some with dogs, will be walking among
the vehicles. Just stay in your lane and have your passports ready. You may not
have needed to show I.D. going into Mexico, but everyone must show a valid I.D.
coming into the States.
When you finally make it to the customs and immigration officer, you
will be pulled up to what looks like a toll booth. The officer will examine
your passports and ask some questions. They may, or may not, want to see inside
your vehicle. I have been fortunate enough to never have my vehicle searched. Every
time across, though, there have been cars around me being physically checked. If
you’re not transporting any prohibited items, being checked won’t be a problem.
It does add time to your crossing, so hopefully you’ll be spared the extra
Adios, Until Next Time
As long as it takes to get back into California, once you’re in, off you go. When the border agent gives you the okay to proceed, you’re merging onto I-5 within a couple of minutes and zooming back towards San Diego. For all the similarities in the looks and geography between California and Baja California, I am always struck by the differences when I leave Mexico. For me, the feeling is always more pronounced even than when I arrive in Tijuana.
To cap off the trip and celebrate a successful return, I like to hit In-N-Out Burger. I don’t believe I’ve ever had a hamburger in Mexico and, honestly, I don’t know why I would. Although I do like an In-N-Out Burger, part of me suspects I’m just trying to fill the void that will remain empty until my next trip from San Diego to Ensenada.
Do you know about Googling for flight bargains? A lot of
people use this handy travel tool by Google, but I find that a lot of people
still do not know about it. Living near a major tourist destination, I have the
opportunity to talk to a lot of travelers. Sometimes they come in waves from
particular locations. One week, there are a ton of people from Boston. The next
week, it seems like every other person on the street is from Toronto. Sometimes
that may be due to coincidence, I’m sure, but more often it seems to be a
result of cheap airfares. When there’s a bargain, the people will follow it.
Although many of these people I bump into belong to the
travel savvy crowd, just as many of them apparently benefited from some blind
luck in finding a cheap fare. In many cases, they already had their destination
in mind and waited for a low fare to become available. Quite of few of them
just got lucky when they booked a flight. A surprising number of travelers, it
seems, really don’t have a system for finding good flight deals.
Googling Flights: A Method to the Madness of Finding Cheap Tickets
My personal system has changed over the years, as changes occur in resources and technology. Sometimes, admittedly, it’s been a bit convoluted. Nevertheless, I usually have some functional frame work that gets the job done. These days, I find it is easier than ever. If I have the time and inclination for a trip, my go-to resource is Google Flights. I continue to be surprised at the number of people who don’t know about Googling for flight bargains. So, here’s a quick crash course on how to use Google to find cheap flight deals.
There are different ways you can use Google Flights to search out airfares. I will walk you through the basics and offer a few helpful tips. By the end, you should be able to find cheap flights on your own. Once you finish reading, play around with Google Flights and see the different ways it lets you find flight deals. Let’s start off by going to the Google Flights landing page.
Googling for Flight Bargains – Let’s Get To It
In the screen shot above, you’ll see that I entered Nashville.
That’s my home airport, but you should put in whatever city you want. Most
often I use my closest airport. Sometimes I want to know the price of tickets
leaving from somewhere else. Either way, the functions are the same. For now,
enter your departing airport, but leave the destination blank. If you want to
check flights for specific dates, go ahead and enter those. You can put
ballpark dates, if you’d like.
Go to the “explore destinations” option. I have circled it
in my screenshot. This will bring up a screen that should look similar to the one
below. You will see a Google maps interface, marked with numerous red dots and
city names. Zoom in, or out, and you will see cities all over the world
displayed. On the left-hand side, you’ll see cheap flights recommended by
Google. If you are flexible on destinations, you may find something there that
interests you. Otherwise, you can play around with the map and see what kind of
flight deals are available.
Drilling Down Into Your Flight Choices
The prices listed on the map are the lowest fares for that destination.
The default is to show round trip flights, but you can change this. Look at the
upper left, above the departure city you entered. The drop-down menus let you
change to one way, if you prefer. From the main Google Flights page, you can
also select multi city, if you wish. The number of passengers and class of
service can also be modified from the drop-downs. Whatever criteria you have selected,
the prices shown will be the lowest available. That doesn’t necessarily mean
they are flights that you will like. To find out what airlines fly a particular
route and the actual itineraries available, simply click on the city and price
that interests you.
In my example, I have chosen to fly from Nashville to
Chicago Midway airport. You will see a section called “best departing flights”.
This will typically represent the itineraries with what Google determines to be
the best combination of flight times and prices. Most of the time, I agree with
their picks, but sometimes I may not. There are times I may want to connect
through a specific city. Other times, I may want a long layover, because I plan
to leave the airport in my connecting city. As you can see in my example, you
have the option to make more criteria selections. These drop-down menus are
just below the city locations and dates. Number of bags, number of stops,
connecting airports and more can be selected.
Google’s Pick vs. Your Picks
Scrolling down, you will see a list of “other departing flights”. Sometimes I find flights I prefer in this section. Also, you see right above this a blurb telling you how prices compare to the average. For my chosen itinerary, it says that prices are currently low. In fact, it says they are $82 cheaper than usual. Not bad. What you will also notice in my example, are flights listed for Southwest airlines. The times are listed, but it says “Price unavailable”. Southwest uses a proprietary booking system, which does not share prices with other booking systems. You can find prices for all the usual suspects, such as United Airlines, American Airlines, etc. If you want to know the prices for Southwest, though, you have to check directly with them.
Using this method, I can find the cheapest place to fly for
any given time period. If I want to take a trip during a specific week, but am
open to exploring destinations, I use this method. If I do have a specific
destination in mind, though, this is a quick and easy way to see if other
regional airports may have better fares. Sometimes it’s worth it to fly into a
different city and rent a car, driving the last leg of the journey. I can
simply look at the map, or I can check the “Nearby airports” link above the “Best
departing flights” list. If I have some flexibility with dates, the “Price
graph” and “Date grid” will show me if different dates might lower my fare.
Now That You Know, It’s Time to Go.
If you are pretty set on a destination, but flexible on
dates, simply change the date parameters to zero in on the best, budget
friendly time frames. Actually, once you click on a city, it will take you to
the specific flight options, but it will also make recommendations to achieve a
lower fare. For instance, if it will lower the fare to leave a day earlier and
return a day later, Google Flights will tell me that.
This is my primary means of finding cheap flight deals. It works for anywhere in the world. I have successfully used this tool to plan solo travel and family vacations. I have made itinerary changes that were easy on the budget, based on information from Google Flights. Have you saved big on Google Flights? Have you made travel plans based on Googling for flight bargains? Leave a comment and let us know about it.
Budget-Friendly Ocho Rios Accommodations
Turtle Beach Towers is not for everyone, but it is a noteworthy choice for certain people. Depending on your style of travel, or your personal circumstances, it may be right for you. For me, it’s well suited to my purposes and the price is a good value when compared to other alternatives. On any number of travel review sites, you will see a wide array of opinions on this property. More than a few are negative. In most cases, I think the people who give negative reviews did not have an accurate idea of what they were booking in the first place.
With this article, I intend to set realistic expectations of a property that is unique, but often misunderstood. Before proceeding, I should say that when I’m in Jamaica, I hire a rental car and have independence of movement. Getting to and from the airport to Turtle Beach Towers is a separate issue. I won’t cover that in detail here. If you don’t wish to rent a car, you’ll need to work out alternate arrangements. The Knutsford Express bus service is a good option if you’re flying into Montego Bay.
It’s important for people to have realistic expectations (including of what not to expect) from Turtle Beach Towers. First of all, it is not a resort. By contemporary standards, it’s also very basic. Although Turtle Beach Towers used to operate as a hotel, it is now, essentially, a high-rise apartment complex. Some tenants are permanent residents, but many of the units are rented to vacationers. Think of it more as renting an apartment, rather than booking a hotel room.
Aside from the people living there, a significant percentage of guests have a personal affiliation with the island. Maybe they’re originally from there, have extended family there, or are otherwise personally connected to the island. This gives Turtle Beach Towers a local vibe you won’t get at most places. It’s not so much, though, that a first time visitor should feel out of place, or uncomfortable.
One thing you should definitely know is that the property is at least 50 years old. When I was a boy, living in Jamaica, I first stayed here way back in the early 80’s. This is where my family would come when we wanted to get away to the beach for a few days. It has not had any major renovations or upgrades in the 30 years since then. I mean that literally.
Turtle Beach Towers has been relatively well maintained. While it is in decent shape, it does show its age. There is no other way to say it than to be blunt; it’s a little on the run down side – clean, but a bit shabby. To be clear, this was never some fancy or high end resort, but even at that, its heyday has passed. I’m not saying the place is a dump. I’m saying it’s getting old and you can tell.
Booking Your Stay at Turtle Beach Towers
If you dig around online, you will find information for Turtle Beach Towers on a variety of websites. The quality of the information out there on the internet varies quite a bit. Usually, it skews toward the worthless end of the scale. You’re getting the straight scoop from me right here and you’re unlikely to find it elsewhere.
You can book these apartments through different portals. The individual owners can rent them out when and where they see fit. Several are managed through a company called My Silver Sands (they manage other properties, as well). I would suggest using them, especially if you’re new to visiting Jamaica, or at least new to Turtle Beach Towers. It makes it a little easier and more convenient. If you like to use AirBnB, you will probably be fine. I have used AirBnB to book accommodation in Jamaic with no problem. It was for a different property, though. Other than my blog, I would recommend getting your info directly from the MySilverSands website. (Incidentally, I get no kickback for referring you to them). Even if you don’t book through them, their info is good. What I find on other sites is, most most of the time, simply incorrect.
Here are a few things to know, regardless of what other sites may say. There is no free Wi-Fi on the property. Individual units mayhave free Wi-Fi, but the property itself does not. To be on the safe side, even if your unit is supposed to have it, confirm ahead of time. Check directly with the management company, or the unit owner. There is not a functioning restaurant and/or bar on the property. There used to be, back in the day, but not anymore. Unfortunately, I have seen signs on the property itself for their now nonexistent restaurant. They should change the signs. Maybe they have since I was there last. I don’t know. Lastly, there is also not a children’s playground, which is another claim I’ve seen on some sites.
Since the units are owned by different people, you can expect different amenities in each. The level of quality and upkeep may vary, as well. Generally speaking, I would say that they are all kept in clean condition. It’s unlikely, though, that any of them don’t show their age. Still, look at the pictures carefully before you book a unit to make sure it is what you want. There are studios, one bedroom and two bedroom units available. Unless you’re overly picky, you can probably find something to suit your needs. If you’re extremely picky, this probably isn’t the place for you, anyway. Jamaica is full of luxury resorts and all-inclusive properties. I’m sure you’ll find something.
I’ll throw out a few examples of things I’ve encountered, to help give an accurate idea of what issues you might come across. These are thing that a typical North American tourist might not expect in a rental unit. There may be poorly patched and unpainted spots on the walls, where damages have been repaired. The amount and quality of dishes and utensils in the kitchen may vary widely. If kitchen equipment is an important to you, check ahead of booking. Cabinets may be rickety, plumbing fixtures may have seen better days. In my experience, everything is clean and taken care of, but once again, it’s an older property.
When Turtle Beach Towers was built, it did not have central air conditioning. Heck, when I was a kid, there were very few places in Jamaica that had air conditioning, including our home. We had windows and fans. Luckily, these days there are wall mounted A/C units in the rooms. Be forewarned, if you’re out and about during the day, your housekeeper may turn off your A/C to conserve electricity. If so, you may find yourself returning to a muggy room. That means you will have to wait for it to cool back off. They’re not trying to make you uncomfortable when they do this. The cost of electricity in Jamaica is very high.
The kitchens are small and dated. Even though the dishes and cooking equipment may vary, the fact that there is a kitchen at all is a big plus for me. If you’re staying several days, it’s nice to be able to cook some meals for yourself. In town you’ll find seasonal fruits and vegetables available and there are a few supermarket options in Ocho Rios.
Is grocery shopping in a foreign country a new adventure for you? No worries. The Progressive Foods Supermarket, in particular, is very comparable to the grocery stores in the U.S., or Canada. The layout will feel familiar and there will be many of the products you’re used to. You’ll also find a variety of Jamaican products that may be new to you. Be adventurous and try something new. Oh, and here’s another tip for you. The supermarket is a good place to buy alcoholic beverages. They have a good selection and the prices are geared more towards locals than tourists, so it may be a little easier on your wallet.
On-Site Swimming Pool
I’ve pointed out things the property does not have, but something it does have is a clean, extra-large swimming pool. Most of the time, there is a lifeguard on duty. Sometimes, they may not be paying a lot of attention. As likely as not, they won’t be sitting up on the raised lifeguard chair. For that matter, they may not even be sitting where they can actually see the swimming pool. I don’t say all that as a criticism. The point is, if you have children in the pool, keep an eye on them. Many places don’t hire lifeguards, anyway, so taking responsibility for your own kids should really go without saying.
While the pool itself is clean and fairly nice, don’t expect the same from the surrounding lounge area. Some of the chairs may be in a rather dilapidated condition. Some may be downright ragged. Others will be okay. Hopefully, this has been addressed since my last visit, but I wouldn’t assume so. Despite these issues, you can still find a place to relax by the pool. Nothing is so bad that it keeps my family from enjoying the pool on a daily basis.
You’re a short stroll to the beach. It’s Jamaica, so the water is gorgeous. I learned to swim at that beach, many years ago. Despite all that, the main beach in Ocho Rios is not my personal favorite and we don’t spend a lot of time there. If you don’t have a car, though, maybe you’ll spend most of your time there. It’s not a bad beach, mind you, it’s just not my favorite. I prefer to go somewhere less crowded and less heavy on tourists.
However, if you’re staying at Turtle Beach Towers, it’s right there. There is absolutely no beating the convenience factor. And there’s some stuff to do. You can buy a beer from a vendor, you can book a ride on a glass bottom boat. If you’re not looking to venture too far afield from where you’re staying, it should work out fine for you. I would be remiss if I didn’t mention that you may encounter another collection of ragged chairs. The good news is – they’re free to use. I guess they have that going for them. If you’re like me, though, you don’t mind spreading out a blanket and plopping down on the ground.
Safety and Security in Jamaica
What about security, you may ask. Clearly, this is not some all-inclusive compound where you are detached from the surrounding world. Right? I know some people get a little a fidgety about such things. Unfortunately, Jamaica gets some negative press abroad regarding crime and safety. Please know that Jamaica, like most developing countries does have its struggles with both poverty and crime. However, it is nowhere in the ballpark of being some lawless war zone. Like in the U.S. and elsewhere, high crime areas are not really where the tourists are flocking. Furthermore, tourists are very rarely targeted by criminals.
I use common sense safety precautions when I go about my life at home. Do the same when you travel, in Jamaica or anywhere, and you should be fine. Making yourself an easy target for petty criminals is a bad idea wherever you might be. All that being said, Turtle Beach Towers is a fenced property. I would not call it a high security property, though. Personally, I don’t feel like there’s enough of a risk to require it to be a high security property. They do have a security guard manning the gate into the parking lot. There’s another at the walk-in gate that leads to the beach. A lot of people that live in these apartments full-time and that includes quite a few children. The property is safe enough that young children can be found playing freely on the grounds at most any hour.
Getting Around Ocho Rios
The location of Turtle Beach Towers is great. You are in walking distance of most of the shopping in Ocho Rios. You’re right across the street from Island Village and Margaritaville (the only place nearby with free Wi-Fi). Just around the corner is the Taj Mahal shopping center. At Taj Mahal you can find a cambio for exchanging money. It’s the closest money exchange to Turtle Beach Towers. The shopping center also has a bar. There are shops to buy souvenirs and places to eat a meal. If you want an authentic Jamaican breakfast, get the ackee and calaloo at the downstairs bar/restaurant. A relatively short stroll to downtown Ocho Rios gets you to even more souvenir shops. The ever-popular craft market is there, too.
Attractions such as Dunn’s River Falls and Dolphin Cove are easily accessible from Turtle Beach Towers, but may be farther than you want to walk. If you don’t have a car, taxis are never far away. Ask someone in the office if you have questions about how to hire taxi. Ocho Rios is a major tourist location in Jamaica, but it is also a town with a local population. If you get off the main drag, there are other restaurants and shops that are not necessarily geared toward tourists. Ask people for recommendations and see beyond the beach a little.
Turtle Beach Towers – Best of Both Worlds
Turtle Beach Towers is a place where you can enjoy local tourist attractions, while absorbing more of the local lifestyle than you likely would in other venues. The best of both worlds, you might say, as long as you have realistic expectations of the property. Primarily, I recommend Turtle Beach Towers to people on a budget , or looking for a local experience that’s missing in the big resorts.
Yes, it has its shortcomings, but they really aren’t that significant. I think it is actually one of the better dollar values to be found on the north coast of Jamaica. If you’re picky, or high maintenance, looking to be pampered, or completely unadventurous, I doubt this is the place for you. After all of my long winded description, I guess the single thing I would say in terms of a recommendation would be this: it’s where I stay with my family.
Home of Fish Tacos
Baja California is known as the home of fish tacos. While you may find decent ones elsewhere, nothing beats the taste of a freshly made fish taco in its native habitat. My favorite place to grab a fish taco (or two) is Mariscos Tito’s: Rosarito Mexico, just off the 1D toll road . They have locations in Playas de Tijuana, in Tijuana proper and in Ensenada. I have passed by the one in Ensenada a few times, but my spot is the one in Rosarito. I can’t speak for the ones in Tijuana, but compared to Ensenada, the Rosarito location is bigger. It also has ample, dedicated parking.
Why Tito’s? Well, the food is fresh, the taste explodes in your mouth, the servings are large and the prices are small. A better question would be “why not Tito’s”? Prices fluctuate with time and the relative value (for Americans) depends on the exchange rate. When I’ve been, the standard fish taco cost me roughly $0.75 USD. There is no way a massive fish taco like that would cost anywhere in the ballpark of a dollar if I were buying it at home.
The basic fish taco (taco pescado) is breaded and fried and the pieces are so big that it’s sometimes difficult to fold the tortilla over. I’ve had to remove a piece of fish to eat by itself, because the taco was too massive and messy, otherwise. For a little extra money, though still a bargain, you can upgrade to a higher end taco.
The Price is Right
Last time I was there, I tried the marlin taco and it was delicious. The marlin was not battered like the basic pescado. The best I can describe it is to say that the consistency reminded me a bit of the crab mixture in a crab cake. Of course, the taste and flavor were entirely different. To put the cost into perspective, I paidfor three people and we each had a taco and soft drink. It cost me about $6.50 USD for the whole shebang. That has to be, at minimum, a third of what it would cost north of the border.
As I already mentioned, Mariscos Tito’s is right off the toll road. Just minutes from Playa Rosarito, you’ll find it on Calle Puente Machado. With its bright blue tents and colorful signs, it’s hard to miss. Just reminiscing about Tito’s is making me a little hungry.
There are plenty of other menu options you can explore. Unfortunately, I don’t know what else to recommend. I have yet to venture past those awesome tacos. Maybe next time. It will be hard to beat a combo of taco pescado and taco marlin, though.
Check out our detailed guide to Baja California to learn how to cross from San Diego and explore all the way to Ensenada.
The history of the Valle de Guadalupe in Baja California is an interesting one, including the early 20th Century settlement of a Russian community, which was granted a substantial amount land in the fertile valley. Although the Mexican government had granted the land to the Russians, later land distribution policies forced the bulk of the Russian community to relocate to the United States. However, a remnant of that community lingered on in the valley and it is estimated that a couple hundred of their descendants still live in the area. These Russian descendants have effectively integrated into the local population over the generations, through both intermarriage and assimilation, there are still visible elements of Guadalupe’s Russian heritage to be found. One such reminder is the Restaurante Familia Samarin.
This family-run restaurant is located not far off of Highway 3 in Guadalupe. Highway 3 runs the length of the valley and connects Ensenada to Tecate in the north. The Restaurante Familia Samarin restaurant is owned and operated by descendants of the early Russian immigrants to the area. The restaurant itself features a rustic chic decor .Their food is a creative mix of inherited Russian recipes, intermingled with Mediterranean dishes. As if this unique fusion of cuisines was already enough to intrigue the taste buds, it is all served up with a Mexican twist. The Russian-Mexican flavor that permeates this Valle de Guadalupe eatery is bound to please any adventurous palate.
Like everywhere in the Valle de Guadalupe, of course, there is wine to be had. There are also a variety of site-made artisanal breads and cheeses, as well as an array of sauces, tapanades and other delicacies. You can either enjoy them there, or buy some to take with you. Adjacent to the restaurant, there is a gourmet boutique, offering savory treats made there, or by local vendors. This sort of diversified business model seems prevalent in the Guadalupe Valley.
Brush Up On Your Restaurant Spanish
The staff may, or may not, speak English, so if
you’re not conversant in Spanish, be aware and be prepared. Having said that,
my own Spanish is limited, at best, and the language barrier wasn’t much of a
hurdle. A few basic Spanish phrases will serve you well in Mexico and,
accompanied with a translator on your phone to conjure up the name of things,
it’s really not that difficult to get by. I’ll help you out, though, and let
you know that conejo is Spanish for rabbit and, if you order
it at Restaurante Familia Samarin, I don’t think you’ll be disappointed. I
certainly wasn’t. Of the dishes our party tried, the only complaint would be with
the chicken alfredo pasta. Although the dish was a substantial portion and,
overall, well seasoned, the sauce was more watery than it should have been,
which did detract from the enjoyment. Everything else we ordered was
spot on, however, so maybe we just caught them on off day for alfredo sauce.
Baja’s Russian Heritage
Adjacent to the restaurant is a small Russian heritage museum, operated by the Samarin family. We took a pass on looking inside, for multiple reasons. Earlier in the day, we’d visited the Bibayoff winery, where we’d seen a number of items and artifacts related to the valley’s Russian heritage. Plus, some of us were getting a little tired and there were still other stops to make. Lastly, according to their sign, the admission to the museum is $25.00 per person.
Given that we had already decided to press on with our day, I did not clarify with the staff if that was $25 USD or if the price was in pesos. I hope it was in pesos, which seems a little cheap, but if that price was in dollars, I’d be inclined to call it exorbitant. Honestly, as a bit of an armchair anthropologist, I find the story of the Russian-Mexicans to be quite interesting and read a fair amount about their history. If I have time on my next visit, I wouldn’t mind taking a peek inside their little museum so, hopefully, that price is not in US dollars, or I’ll have to take another pass.
Worth a Re-visit
Restaurante Familia Samarin is definitely on my list of places to eat if, and when, I return to the Valle de Guadalupe. I have seen and heard good things about their pizza, which they bake in their wood-fired, adobe oven, so maybe I’ll try that. Since the Familia Samarin restaurant is considered by some to be one of the best restaurants in Valle de Guadalupe, I suspect it they do most things well.
On my next visit, I will also need to do a better job at stocking up on their retail products, such as their tapenades. I’ve already kicked myself for not coming home with more of such things in the first place. I’m sure they would be a hit with friends and family, as well as a conversation piece. Just one more reason to go back, though, I suppose…to do a little shopping. And eating. It’s well worth the time for both.